Killing two Predators with one Acorn
19/8/11
Today got off to a rather inauspicious start, I was lethargic after yesterday’s rest day and even the 7a warm up on “Consenting Adults” didn’t quite seem to do the trick off re-activating my energy stores. On the previous climbing day I had had a wee play on “Predator” (8b) but couldn’t decide whether or not to try that or another route today. After deciding with myself that the top of “Predator” still looked wet as it was the previous day, I decided to try something different, perhaps “Mid-ledge Spread” (8b) another one of Malhams classics I have yet to try.
After warming up a bit, one of my friends Adam Lincoln showed his face at the crag. It was good to meet up with him as I hadn’t seen him in quite a while and it was good to catch up. He was here to film Jordan Buys on “Cry Freedom” (8b+ or 8c). When Adam abseiled from the top of the cove to film Jordan, he could see that the top of “Austrian Oak” was dry and thus my mind was made up. “The Oak” has been something on my tick list for a very long time, indeed as long as I’ve been visiting Malham for that matter. It’s an awesome power endurance style route with lots of powerful moves from undercuts, a style that I’m not very good at.
I had one go on “Austrian Oak”, scouting out the sequence, scoping for potential rests (all of which at first glance appeared totally crap) and trying to link in sections (always helps for telling your mind that it’s possible). I managed to split the route into two sections on my first try the day before -
1) Bottom Boulder Crux - Half way jug rest
2) Jug rest - Top
Today it felt even harder! I had one attempt at doing the boulder problem and slipped off, from there, I just continued to work the route in sections again, fiddling about with the sequences whilst getting a bit of beta from Adam. I had a good rest after that with my mind set on getting through the start boulder with a view to potentially having a blast at getting through the middle crux afterwards.
Amazingly on my third attempt, it was as if the Malham gods were blessing me with the invisible power of sticky pads, I climbed through the boulder crux without any difficulty straight into the good rest! I shook out out a couple of times, fully recovered then flowed through the middle traverse and into the red point crux (even managed to recover on the undercuts that felt so horrible before). I set off into the red point crux with no pump or loss of power and breezed through into the final jugs only for my foot to silently slip as I was re-adjusting on a jug! D’OH!!!!! It wasn’t so bad, I suddenly knew the route was possible, not only that, but I knew i could do it easily without a fight which doesn’t often happen on 8b’s! I went for one more go an hour later only for my foot to slip again quite low down, then in a haste of excitement and anticipation (possibly also a hint of stupidity) I got on within a few minutes and sent the route on my 5th try!
20/8/11
After some good sends the day before, I was eager for more! My fingertips where red raw but sometimes polished Malham limestone can be forgiving (can’t it?). I was again unsure of what I should try today and in the end, opted for “Predator” since it looked a bit drier at the top than on previous days. I had one blast for it after my warm up, amazingly despite my fingers feeling pretty painful and the full heat of the sun brining down on the route I managed to get straight up into the crux and only fluffed it a bit due to the anticipation of reaching a good hold too early. I sat down on the rope, re- adjusted my sequence for the crux (mainly footholds - typical Malham) and went to the to the top (I couldn’t on my first go the other day as it was too wet).
A couple of years ago I had fallen off right at the top of this route, I was determined not to repeat mistakes of previous attempts here and fluff it again. I figured out a good new sequence at the top and returned back to the ground.
Nat had a wee play on “Predator”, she struggled quite a bit at the crux mainly due to reach on some of the moves but I’m positive she can find a sequence that will suit her.
When Nat got back down, I decided I might as well have a good blast before Will (our cameraman : p) got down, so I just went for it! The first section felt really easy (f7b-ish), I managed to recover really well at the crux and knew that if I just maintained myself instead of popping too early for a crucial hold then I would be fine. I set out onto the crux, it felt quite greasy as the sun was in full strength on it now but the moves didn’t feel hard (V5/6ish). I pulled through into a good rest at the top of the crux un-pumped but wary that I had fluffed it two years before on the final bulge of this route. After a few minutes of shaking out, I headed up into the final section. A tricky rock over established me on some small but positive edges and from there I clipped, I then did some tricky foot movements and locked out left onto a weird mono undercut and crossed through into a jug tufa! Thank god that was over, after resting a bit more on the tufa I pulled through the bulge and tip-toed (the foot holds are really small) to victory at the chains!
It was nice to tick my second 8b at Malham in as many days and of course the 8a+ “Overnite Sensation” on the day before, not bad for a few days at Britain’s top sport crag (many might argue with this but right now I’m content with it).
Nat has started work on “Overnite Sensation” and is looking strong on it. She is struggling a little with the boulder but crushes the top section despite the powerful last move. I had one go on “Unjustified” (8b+) and it felt really do-able! I did every move which is always a good sign although it did take a wee bit to figure out the crux - thanks to Alan for shouting up the beta. I reckon it felt like a Font 7B boulder problem to pull through the bulge followed by a French 7c to the top. Of course you also have to start up “Something Stupid” (7b) to get to the crux which is probably one of Malham’s filthiest 7b’s! I would almost prefer to start up “Raindogs” than do “Something Stupid” at least just to save some skin for the crux!
Oh well… Our next coaching group starts in 4 days, looking forward to it! A new bunch of psyched climbers to help achieve their Sport climbing goals!
PEACE
ROBZ OUT
[...] you’ll agree that the time on the rope was well spent. Ben pushed his redpoint grade to 6c+, Robbie ticked off a couple of Malham 8bs, Nat ticked the classic of the crag at Malham. I’ve [...]