UK

"New Statesman" - British Political and Cultural Issues in the Modern Rock Touching World

Tue, 31 Mar 2015 10:11:49 +0100

The grit was made famous worldwide after the movie “Hard Grit” was released in the late 90’s. Whenever I travel abroad, the moment it becomes obvious that I’m British (which is generally instant), I am queried about grit… Almost as if this island we live on is just one massive gritstone blob bobbing in and out of the sea :P Well I have a confession to make folks, I’ve not really spent much time on the grit… In fact my time on the grit can be narrowed down to half a day at Stanage bouldering and another spent top roping “Flying Buttress”. Saying that I’ve spent a bit of time recently on the sandstone of Northumberland (my local) and although it is finer grain, there are certainly similar characteristics style and rock formation.

What with the history embedded in gritstone, I kind of feel a little bit intimidated by it. You’d think that a bunch of sandy boulders barely 15m high on average surely wouldn’t be that scary? But I think because as I grew up, the reputation of the grit has been so prevalent in the media, it was always this looming rock that would forever feel scary and formidable to me.John Dunne on the FA

Because I have been getting well into my in trad recently, it made sense to take a trip down to the gritstone and get on a couple of the classics. But being me, I always love a challenge and I wanted to jump straight into the deep end! I contacted a friend of mine, Jacob Cook. We had been discussing gritstone plans for a while and on the cards, “Gaia” and “End of the Affair” had been climbs most often mentioned. I had even almost done a trip down for “Gaia” shortly before my Spain (Chulilla) trip, but weather got the better of us.

Jacob recommended “New Statesman” as a good route for me to try… arguably a very big step into gritstone and not what you would call a standard entry level climb, but it’s an amazing line and there is no harm in trying. Jacob had already climbed it and has even added his own harder variation on the same wall.

I really laid on the pressure with “New Statesman”. Committing myself to trying this with basically no gritstone experience and also brought along Euan Ryan (Finalcrux Films) to film the ascent for an upcoming series documenting my climbing adventures. The plan wasn’t to lead it this trip, simply to work it and figure out what I needed to do in order to make a successful ascent. I had more or less said to myself that this would probably take a good few trips to nail and I didn’t want to rush anything!

Working “New Statesman” was certainly an experience of intense learning and adaptation. I discovered many possible ways to climb the route; but what I wanted was a method that delivered success with the least likeliness of pre-sending failures, any of which might have involved broken bones and a swift end to the climbing season for me! So you can understand why I didn’t want to fall off!Working "New Statesman" sporting my Urban Uprising Tee :D

I played about with the sequences a bit, but by the end of my first day working the route I found my beta after a successful clean top rope from the ground. When this happens, it’s a flurry of emotions… you’ve done the route; all that’s left is to get on the sharp end and climb it “for real”! Not as simple as it might first appear…

I needed a nights rest to ponder my situation. The option to lead it was on the table and I was ebbing strongly in favour for this. The rest of that night I relaxed and had some good fun on my longboard with the guys :D

The next day, it took me the best part of 2 hours to get in the zone; which involved quite a number of false starts. I phoned a friend (Neil McGeachy) for some advice and discussed tactics with Charlie (my belayer). Neil’s advice was simple yet effective… the route would still be here next week. There was no pressure today and to drive home without it would in some ways be a more rememberable experience than to have ticked it off in a weekend. This calmed me down, relieving all pressure and strangely enough I felt hyped up to lead it now!

I had a stare down session with the route; I listened to music and stared at the climb… like an opponent in a duel I approached the climb with deadly seriousness and ambition, I didn’t want to let this beat me, I didn’t want to go away with my tail between my legs. The song “Sleep Forever” by “Portugal. The Man” rung through my headphones…

I stood below the climb reminding myself as I often do of the pointlessness of it all… I am spending hours, days, and years of my life obsessing over rocks, puzzling them out and getting emotional about climbing them; what a silly fool!

On the redpoint I was eerily calm inside… confident in every hand hold, every foot placemen; I knew I could do it! There was no doubt, not even a slither; I had this! As I came to the top of the highball crux section I gave a small power scream to shut out negativity; but that had been killed off long ago!

I rested a bit, then pressed on gaining higher and higher on the climb. It was now feeling quite airy for a boulder, but luckily here comes the comforting gear that famously ripped on Michale Caminati when he fell at the final crux. Staring ahead at the oncoming sequence of smeary unbalanceness above the fated gear that may or may not hold was a curious position to be in; but I was calm… there was nothing that could go wrong! I executed everything precisely and had nothing to fear… and then it was over!On the lead...

Questions cropped up as to why I decided to lead that day. One honest reason is ego… Perhaps it got the better of me? I wanted success and didn’t want to experience a drive back to Edinburgh knowing failure! But that wasn’t the real reason… I think it’s only a feeling you get when you’ve been in this situation but I knew I could do it! In the morning I wasn’t capable of climbing 3m up this thing; and yet after lunch I was impervious to any negative thoughts!

Climbing “New Statesman” for me was a huge step forward in my climbing career. Ego aside (as that’s where I often like to put it), climbing this particular bit of rock was a challenge for me in numerous ways and I learned much from the experience. You can’t put a price on experience and you certainly can’t grade it!

“E” is for “Experience” in this case; not “Extreme” :D

Ethics

One final note goes out in response to some of those who questioned the ethics climbing “New Statesman”.

First of all, my current stance on trad climbing is this:

Make the leader as safe as possible
Leave no gear behind
Respect the rock

I think those are some pretty widely accepted notions of what trad climbing is about. I don’t pretend that others won't think differently, but from talking to experienced trad climbers they mostly agree with these points.

I used pads because I figured it would be safer. I’d say that’s reason enough. I am aware that John Dunne didn’t use mats during the FA, but there have been many ascents of this climb since then that have all involved them. I don't conclude that my ascent was better or even on par with John Dunne’s… first of all he did it as a FA, so that’s pretty much as good as it gets! And I’m not too fussed if anybody wants to go repeat it with a bed of nails under them, it’s not a competition about who is bolder (but maybe it is for someone?); it’s climbing a rock at the end of the day… anybody who gets off on being the “big man” by climbing a rock in a particular way should probably reassess life goals; but I’m not going to judge too harshly as I have been that same guy many times before.

Ethics are really funny because what was ethically disdained upon 10 years ago; today is common practice. Some of the folk who have been against the use of mats are the same folk who practiced head-pointing when ground up and onsight style was considered standard and head-pointing was considered “cheating”. My take on this is, as time goes on ethics change… it’s really quite simple and a natural progression to the world and not just our meager little past time of clambering about on rocks.

Grades are a big part of climbing in the 21^st century, but I like to remember that they are man-made and not essential to life!

If I could get across one thing in this blog post it would be this:

“Last week I climbed a rock. I got to the top. I was happy. Some people liked my facebook pictures. Some did not. The End.”

Spotting Charlie on the E1 solo/highball

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Malham, Goredale...and Midges!

Tue, 24 Jul 2012 10:12:44 +0100

Last weekend we made yet another trip down to that old haunt of ours - The Yorkshire Dales! It gave us a strange sensation of "déjà-vu" as me, Robbie and Will Carroll drove down on the Friday evening. Almost one year ago we had climbed and camped together surrounded by the stunningly beautiful landscape of the Dales. Our aim for this year's trip? To spend 3 days focussing our efforts on completing some new and exciting routes whilst avoiding rain and midges. Unfortunately, it is near impossible to avoid midges at this time of year in the UK, yet on every other front I'd say we were fairly successful in achieving our goals.

Ready to go!

We set up camp upon arriving at Gordale Campsite and settled down for the night, dreaming of a dry Malham Cove. Unfortunately our dreams were shattered as the rain continually pelted down onto our tents throughout the night. We arrived at the Cove to find the majority of the normally glimmering white and grey rock covered in slimy black streaks. However, luckily there was one section of the crag that appeared to be bone dry - the Upper Tier or "upstairs" as it 's known locally (and ever more increasingly by those who frequent the crag and get to know the local lingo!) We warmed up "downstairs" before setting off for the Upper Tier.

A bit wet...

I had only ever climbed at this sector once before about 5 years ago and recalled the precarious path along which you have to meander in order to safely reach the tier. Despite the slippery wet grass we all made it in one piece and chose our routes. Me and Robbie had our sights set on Herbie 7c+, a typically technical Malham test piece. Robbie had a good onsight attempt and I geared up for a flash go. It looked very bouldery in the mid section and I wasn't sure how I would feel on the route. I hadn't climbed outdoors much since Spain and certainly hadn't been on form when it came to flashing and onsighting. However, at the wall recently my attempts on new routes - despite being few and far between in number - had been quite successful. I recently onsighted my first indoor 8a which gave me high hopes for this trip. My only other concern was my left arm, which has been suffering from a minor tendon tear over the last month or so.

I started up the route and surprisingly managed to pull off some hard moves before falling at the crux. I worked out the rest of the route carefully despite my usual impatience to do so and rested before attempting it again. Robbie had completed it second go and claimed it felt a lot easier once the moves were figured out. I hoped this would be the case for me too!

I psyched myself up and went through the crux in my head. It involved a powerful move from a poor open tufa-like splodge up to a wide blocky jug (for want of a better description...see Robbie's blog!) I calmly cruised up the bottom section, finding it easier than before and gaining confidence with each upward progression. I pushed on into the crux and squeezed the tufa and set my feet ready for the big reach to the block. I tickled my hand closer and closer before I latched it enough to swing my feet free and continue towards the top tufa section. One of the last moves involved a long span out to a poor slopey tufa and it took a lot of composure to be summed up before finally committing and carrying on to clip the chains. I was very pleased to tick this route 2nd go, I have heard to much hype about it and it felt great to tick a classic quickly.

Meanwhile Will was making steady progress on his new obsession - Obsession 7b+! I had tried this route once or twice 5 years ago and knew exactly how tricky it was. Will managed to pull off one of the craziest moves I have ever seen whilst working this route, a sort of controlled barn door cross- through which both amused and inspired everyone watching. Me and Robbie were now looking to try L'obsession 7c+ upon recommendation from a climber at the crag. I watched Robbie on the onsight and prepared for the flash attempt. No matter how much Robbie tried to convince me that I could flash it, I still wouldn't believe what he was saying and settled with my normal happy go lucky approach when attempting to flash or onsight a climb.

With the moves in my head I started up and found a rhythm of hand and foot movements that just appeared to flow. Lots of high feet and low locks on tiny holds, my strongest kind of move. I was soon past the crux and thought "oh" as I reached a good hold and shook out. Robbie mapped the next sequence out for me, but as I am terrible at multitasking by means of listening and following beta whilst en-route, I only absorbed some of the information and so battled on short-sightedly up the white wall. I could see all the holds but was unsure of the sequence to follow. Pumped and insecure, I stubbornly tried to work it out my own way but eventually tired out and dropped off. I had reached just below the second last clip and was throughly exhausted but quite proud of my efforts! I worked the top bit briefly then came down. I decided to leave it until the following day for my second go, as my skin was wearing thin and my arms were eternally pumped! I watched Robbie climb it second go and he assured me that once again it was "easy if you now the answer" I.e. if you know all the moves well enough!

Pulling through the crux of L'Obsession Photo: Will Carroll

The next day was a big day for me, as I was being filmed by professional filmmaker Jen Randall for her upcoming movie about female climbers pushing themselves to their limit whilst having fun and living the dream in the process! It was a beautifully sunny day, which was warmly welcomed by everyone despite making the rock appear as bright and blank as a sheet of paper as the sun's rays were reflected off the cove. It was difficult to see the holds and my perception of where the holds actually were was distorted slightly in the blinding sun. I began my second attempt on L'obsession after a brief warm up whilst Jen and Dom were setting up the cameras. Will was also busy getting into his usual dangling-on-a-rope position ready to take some photos. I had intended to go up the route again to film it in sections if I ticked it second go, and there was no pressure to catch it on film, so I thought I would focus purely on getting the route done first. I got through the crux fairly smoothly and rested before the sustained top section. I visualised the top sequence, although my memory of the very top was slightly cloudy. I battled on regardless, I felt more in control than I did on the flash up until the few moves before I had fallen last time. I completely blanked and messed up the sequence but kept fighting until I was too pumped and confused to go on. I fell off, annoyed that I hadn't worked the top out properly beforehand.

The final touches to the cameras and rigging had been made and after a short rest I decided to go for it again in full view of the cameras. I must admit it did add a bit of pressure to the ascent, yet I have become accustomed to on-the-spot pressure over the years through competition climbing. I knew what to do now and there would be little room for excuses on my third go. I felt strong on the crux and had the sequence dialled. I looked at the next section and knew what to do - I had to climb quickly and efficiently if I had any hope of getting through the tricky bit. I left the rest position rather prematurely in my over-exuberance to carry on and felt slightly pumped in the first few moves. Somehow it all came together and eventually I found myself pulling onto the top jugs right beside Jen and her camera. I had completely forgotten about the cameras being there right up until that point, I had been so focussed purely on my climbing!

It is a great feeling when something you envisage in your mind comes to fruition, and both these routes at Malham are examples of occasions when I managed to focus on the climbing and get into the "zone" without any external influences distracting me. To top it all off, Robbie ticked an 8a second go and Will completed his project Obsession 7b+. In all a great day for the crew! Thanks must go to Jen, her Dad, Dom and Will for taking the time to film and photograph me, and to Robbie for his support and encouragement.

Jen in position! Photo: Will Carroll

After a homely pub dinner with James, Catherine, Chris, Cathy and Nicola, the trio headed back to Gordale campsite to rest up before climbing in Gordale Scar itself the next day. I first visited this crag last year but never climbed on it - an amazingly gusty ravine complete with waterfalls, bulging rockfaces and of course, tourists! Me and Robbie had our sights set on Supercool 8a+, a route for which I had heard a lot of praise. Robbie went up and scoped it out, putting the clips in and giving a good onsight burn up until the tricky mid section. It was freezing cold and windy yet it was my turn to step up to the wall. The sheer face loomed over me as I set off, I composed myself under the first bulge. I pushed on, half listening to Robbie and half focussing on what would happen if I fell off. I have a peculiar dislike for certain formations and textures if rock, if it is bulgy and sharp, I am much less likely to go for things as I am always wary of swinging into bulges, especially after a fairly scary fall in Spain this year (I was fine, just a badly bruised knee!) To add to the fear of the bulges, the exposure of the rockface is rather daunting with high winds sweeping around, which in my case uplifted my chalk bag and tipped chalk everywhere, causing a tornado of chalk to fly into my face! Just what I needed to add to my disorientation, much to the amusement of Robbie! My flash attempt was decent until I refused to commit to some hard moves just over the bulge. I came down, composed myself and then had another go.

This time round, probably due to having hung about up there before and through getting used to the experience of being high up in a windy valley, I focused on the climbing as though I were in a competition. Much like on my successful climbs at Malham, I managed to focus purely on the moves and reached over 3/4 of the way up, coming off on the last hard move of the route. I struggled to find a sequence to get past this large span and eventually gave up. Robbie's beta was not much use to me and a lack of footholds made things a bit more tricky for me! I would love to get back on this route at some point and hopefully work out a suitable sequence that works for me. It was inspiring watching Robbie climb the route third go, a route which he too has been planning to complete for a long time now.

Cranking hard on Supercool. Photo: Catherine Speakman

My final endeavour of the trip was a 7b+ called Revival - a truly epic line which traverses across flakes and spikes before eventually meandering up a technical headwall. Will had given a sterling performance as per usual in trying to complete it, falling at the crux but looking smooth and calm all the way up. It was now up to me to get the quickdraws out and then we could leave! The first section was slightly daunting in that there were many loose blocks and a lot of tourists not too far below. I climbed cautiously and traversed across the lip of the roof until I came to the crux. I did a bizarre cross over move on poor footholds and stuck the crucial press move before coming to an easier section on good holds. I thought it was all over! Then came the last moves up to the chain. I saw an obvious undercut and then not much above it leading to a big juggy break. I hung around and kept calm. I took the undercut, tried to stand up, then came back down. I needed to shake out a bit more and then reposition. I went for it. In a stroke of luck I just so happened to grab blindly for a good side pull which was previously invisible to me. I pulled up, stood up and clipped the chains. What a relief! My first completed route at Gordale, and a quality one at that!

Finally we could head back along the path to the car to leave for Edinburgh. It had been a busy few days and we were exhausted. A stop off at Westmorland farm shops services, however, was enticing enough for us to delay arrival at home that little bit longer. After a delicious dinner we set off again and arrived home, complete with midge bites and good memories. Here's to next year!

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Yorkshire is "Supercool"

Mon, 23 Jul 2012 01:06:04 +0100

Hey Guys!

The last 3 days has been fun from start to finish. Nat and I have been away on a short trip to the UK sport climbing mecca of Yorkshire. As much as we love hopping on planes and jet setting off to sun baked crags in central Europe, we still find ourselves coming back to the land of puddings, rippers and grumpy farmers. To be frank, you can't go that wrong when you've got a 30minute drive radius from three of the biggest and best limestone crags in the country (Kilnsey, Malham and Gordale).

I have spent only a few days in Kilnsey and that was a number of years ago now. Unfortunately we didn't get a chance to visit this time but I'm looking forward to future trips. Malham is where I have spent most of my time in Yorkshire and I can't quite get enough of it. Everytime I go there I find new routes that entice me, keeping that flame for Malham burning. Until this trip I had never actually climbed at Gordale crag, but if you read on you'll hear that I am glad I didn't leave it any longer.

Day 1 - Malham on the Upper Tier

Three of us (myself, Nat and Will Carroll) drove down on the Friday afternoon to make it there by the evening. It was a leisurely journey with a few hours spent in Penrith dining at a very nice Italian restaurant Will had recommended. The following day we were meeting up with pro photographer and film maker Jen Randall as she was wanting to film Nat for an upcoming climbing movie. As well as Jen, we were also meeting up with some old friends Chris and Catherine Speakman who are lucky enough to live in the village of Settle only 10minutes drive from Malham!!!

Nat climbing "L'obsession" (7c+) - Photo by Will Caroll

As we were there for only a short while we decided to do quicker ticks on easier routes (that and everything else was wet). We headed up to the Upper tier and attempted our first routes of the trip, "Herbie" (7c+) for myself and Nat, and "Obsession" (7b+) for Will. I had a good onsight burn on "Herbie" falling off high into the final crux whilst Nat's on her flash attempt was similar, falling only a couple of moves lower down. We both busted it out on our second attempt without much trouble, both climbing it in very different styles:

Nat - Slow, precise and completely statico!!!

Robbie - Fast, fluid and definitely not static :P

It's crazy watching Nat climb the same moves as me but in her own unique style. When I climb dynamically, she is generally very controlled. A good example of this was half-way through the crux on "Herbie" - you take a positive, fat pinch with your right hand and pull through to an even better pinch with your left. For me this was a big move and one that I preferred to do quickly... Nat just latched that pinch with vice-like grip and continued to lock slowly from straight arm to a completely full lock before she slowly release her left hand and eased it up to reach the next pinch with as much control and precision as a robotic arm in one of those Xsara Picasso adverts (I think she's from outer space - that or an android from the future).

Jen + Nat filming - Photo by Will Caroll

Will had already started battling with "Obsession" (7b+) alongside Chris who had joined us for the day. Nat and I moved onto our next climb for the day, a spicy little number recommended by a fellow climber at the crag, "L'Obsession" (7c+). I was keen to try my hand at onsighting this as I had made quite a good attempt on "Herbie". Unfortunately I didn't quite make it, I fell off on the last move of the crux (but only just). After climbing through and to the top I feel that if I had made the move I would actually have done the climb from there, but hey ho, thats just how the ball rolls in this old game we call onsight climbing.

It was Nat's turn now, I gave her as much beta as I could and she went for the flash attempt - this I think was the best climbing I saw all weekend! Nat cruised the crux making it look about 6a and then pathed up to the last clip at which point she got confused, I forgot what holds she was to use and she kind of gave up. She had an amazing burn on the flash, it's the best climbing I have seen her do at Malham and everyone was super impressed. Feeling as though I better do something quick before she burns me off again, I mustered up some psyche and quickly despatched "L'obsession" on my second try (it felt a lot easier after watching Nat climb it so well). Nat had a second go burn on it but unfortunately messed up then end more due to lack of skin than anything else in my opinion.

It was time to call it a day, so we headed back to camp and rested well before tomorrows climbing...

Day 2 - Malham Filming

Today was not my day, this was mostly dedicated to Nat and her film crew :P Jen Randall and Dom Bush filmed Nat climbing "L'obsession" (on the send) early on then got some good footage of her attempting "Toadall Recall" (8a). I attempted to retro-flash this route placing the draws as my first route of the day. I first tried this climb about 3 years ago, only once and had forgotten everything about it mostly so I was very happy when I made it through all the hard climbing and fell stupidly from the final crimpy face section staring at the chains. It wasn't so bad as I did it second go and it felt quite steady for the grade.

Will high on "Obsession" (7b+)

Nat tried it after I set up the ropes for filming. I bigged her up for the flash as I thought it would suit her. In general I think it did suit her style, but sometimes its difficult to tell if certain moves that I find "not too bad" won't be too shouldery or powerful for her. There is a big difference between girls and guys generally and although Nat could be stronger than me on some route types, powerful and shouldery moves are always going to be easier for me thanks to my height and genetically superior upper body strength (because I'm a guy). There was one move (the crux) up high that Nat basically couldn't reach without an insanely awkward and very contorted hand sequence - the move for me was a basic right hand press to reach a good crimp, hardly even worth calling the crux once I figured out the best foot beta.

Will was making fantastic progress on "Obsession" and had successfully made one of the coolest moves I've ever seen apart of his routine sequence (see pic). On the last attempt of the day, after he literally said to me whilst tying his climbing shoes "I'll just take the draws down when I reach the top", he made the send! It was a good climb and I can quite happily say that I think it was the best I've seen Will climb in all the years I've known him - GOOD JOB!

Will's crazy move!

Day 3 - Gordale... GOARN!!!!!!!!

GORDALE IS A VERY WOODY WORD ISN'T IT!?!?!?!

As I said before, I have never actually climbed here before yet I have heard so much about it! I have suffered years of friends telling me epic tales of climbing in the mega crag of Gordale. Fights 30+ metres up on "Supercool" (8a+) and other such giant routes that call Gordale home.

Me high on "Supercool" (8a+) - Photo by Will Caroll

Today I was keen to give this mega monolithic route a good go. I had a funny idea that I could give "Supercool" a good onsight burn, then hopefully do it second go, then try "Huecool" (8b) and hopefully do that second go too :P That would be a good day! Things never go quite as planned and if they had then I think I would probably be a little upset as I wouldn't have a totally awesome 8b to go back and try.

My onsight attempt on "Supercool" was really good! I made it fairly high into the route making it through the first crux and failing tickling the good hold on the second :( I felt it was not so bad as a second go would surely be on after working the moves a bit more. Realistically, I should have done this second go... I did all the cruxes and I was high up in the final few metres when I tickled a crimp a little lower than I had expected to get it which caused my nail to ping of the hold causing a sudden lapse of balance and sent me flying off the route. A wee bit angry with my stupid error, I got my "stuff" together and despatched 3rd try :D

I then quickly equipped "Huecool" (8b) knowing well that we hadn't much time left before we would head back home. "Huecool" was definitely a step up from "Supercool". I thought it odd though that the rock was very snappy, I figured this being a classic 8b with relatively a lot of traffic that the rock might have been a bit stronger... I quickly found out that this wasn't the case. I didn't get a good chance at working the crux properly but it felt pretty standard for an 8b crux (if a little bit tenuous) and I can't wait to get back there to finish it off!

Nat had a really good day at Gordale starting off with a mega flash burn on "Supercool" followed by an equally impressive second go attempt that saw her reaching the very final crux move (which she will need to figure out new beta for because it is obviously too spanned for her using my beta). After that she finished the day off onsighting the very awesome looking 7b+ "Revival" which she positively breezed up not accounting for the 100mph winds that day :P

Photo by Will Carrol

Will also had a good day making a great attempt at "Revival" falling on the final crux section. Other friends of ours at the crag today Chris and James spent their time working the beastly looking 7b "Last Dog". By the end of the day Chris got to add this to his ever increasing tick list of 7b redpoints.

Conclusion

Not a bad wee trip to Yorkshire. Our tick lists were healthy, we had lots of fun and we got some mighty fine pictures and films taken. Thanks to Will Caroll, Jen Randall, Dom Bush and Catherine Speakman for taking some amazing photos and film during the trip :D

And Special thanks to Catherine for standing on the edge of Gordale to get the shots - thats what I call going beyond the call of duty!

Photo by Catherine Speakman

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Team GB-H @ Malham

Mon, 05 Sep 2011 01:39:43 +0100

This weekend was our last in plum jam lovers country. After a whole month of camping, I can tell you we are both looking forward to getting home for a bit of rest (even If it's only a day for me). After my successful ascent on "Zoolook" (8a), I turned my attention to another popular Malham classic, "GBH" (8a+).

After having a bit of an epic on "Zoolook", I was a little worried as to how "GBH" would feel. I think though that our previous rest day did us some good as we weren't nearly as tired as when we where on "Zoolook". "GBH" felt a whole lot easier and went down 3rd go (2nd go I fluffed a foot position at the end of the crux). I thought both routes where absolutely awesome, top quality routes at the grade! I know a lot of people say that "Zoolook" is harder than "GBH", and some think the opposite. In my opinion, they are probably around the same grade, the former being high in the grade, the latter low. The fact is that "GBH" is not very technical, it's a burl fest and as long as you can pull between good holds for long enough you will do it. "Zoolook" however requires a bit of tech finesse and is definitely harder now than it was years ago due to the foot polish at the top. If it wasn't for the polish, i think standard 8a, but I do believe that because it feels so uneasy (on your feet) moving through the final crux, this does add a bit to the grade and like I found out, requires a bit of luck. A funny thing for me to think about was whether or not I would prefer to climb "GBH" or "Zoolook" for the extension at the same anchor "Well Dunne Finish" (8b). The extension is originally for "Zoolook" but I have heard of people doing "GBH" as an alternative start, but does this count? Well, I can say that I would much prefer to do "GBH" as a start to "Well Dunne Finish" because I reckon I wouldn't fall off before the start of the extension, but the sustained technicality of "Zoolook" through the crux adds that extra bit of spice. That definitely solidifies in my mind what type of climber I am, a thug! A more intelligent, technical climber would probably prefer "Zoolook".

The last couple of days where spent mostly with Angus Davidson (12) and William Bosi (12), two boys whom I coach back in Edinburgh. They came down to meet us at Malham as part of the MCofS Scottish Team Training Meet. Unfortunately more couldn't make it, but that didn't stop us having a totally awesome time.

A later start on the Saturday (due to the boys driving down with Williams parents on the morning) didn't slow them down! Both boys warmed up on the classic "Rose Coronoary" (7a) and William after a bit more of a forearm pump also ticked off "Consenting Adults" (7a) with ease.

I then pointed them towards a grizzly, gnarl fest 7b called "Something Stupid". After route reading and discussing the sequence with them they both gave it a good flash burn. Angus was unfortunately a little too short for the conventional sequence and fell (not after a lot of stretching and pasting his feet higher) at the crux move. William also fell at the same move, in my opinion a hard one for those height challenged. After working out the moves for a bit and figuring out a new sequence (both of them different), the boys went for their second go redpoint attempt and ticked it off without too much effort. I half expected for them to continue climbing into the extension, "Unjustified" (8b+) : P

After a bit of lunch, both the boys got stuck into "Space Race", one of my first 7b+'s and what I thought would be a good one for them to get on. After a lot of route reading and discussing sequences, they went for the flash! Both of them struggled on a big reach just before the mid-way rest and came off. No worries though, they pulled up and worked out the rest of the route. "Space Race" incorporates a lot of different styles of climbing, from slabby crimp filth, to burly undercuts, no hands rests then battling through roofs and finally a techy headwall! Not only this but there are also quite a few sketchy run outs that require a good head rather than just the brawn. After some more rest, William stepped up to the challenge! With an awesome battle (not without a few hesitations), William fought his way up the wall in what I can only describe as a typically "William" performance. All those who know him (or who where at the crag that day) can vouch for me in saying that he can certainly hang on - a trait I find quite useful in climbing. William got his first 7b+ outdoors that day, 2nd go and just after doing two 7a's and a 7b, not too bad for a 12 year old. Angus, wisely decided to leave it until the Sunday as he was knackered from an already trying day.

On the Sunday, both boys warmed up on "Free and even easier" (7a+). Angus rested at the crux (not wanting to burn himself out for "Space Race" whilst William made a cool flash - another one in the bag!). Angus psyched oot his mind for his race in space went over for some pre-red point attempt sequence reading. After yet another blindingly good performance up the wall, Angus was inches from victory, a fingertip away from reaching a no hands rest which would more or less secure it for him, unfortunately he lost his balance as he rocked over on a small edge and came hurtling towards the ground. A valiant effort for the young beast - despite this he isn't happy (are any of us when we fall?). A lesson is learned for him in dealing with failure (something I am still educating myself on), probably the most important lesson but the hardest to learn. Angus tired from his efforts leaves it for the day and focusses on some other routes before he goes home - next time.

Angus

"Rose Coronary" (7a) - Flash
"Something Stupid" (7b) - 2nd go

William

"Consenting Adults" (7a) - Onsight
"Free and even easier" (7a+) - Flash
"Something Stupid" (7b) - 2nd go
"Space Race" (7b+) - 2nd go

Both the boys had a great time at Malham this weekend and hopefully they will be getting outside more over the next year. A big part of being a coach is making sure that the kids you work with experience all that climbing has to offer - not just indoors, competitions, etc... But also sport, trad, boldering, winter and beyond! Hopefully Angus will be joining me in Kalymnos in October whilst William is heading to a comp in Arco, Italy (plenty of cragging to be done there though). They also have a potential Spanish trip to look forward to next year as well as more fun on British rock!

BIG UP TO THE KIDS!!!]]>

All good things come in 3's

Sat, 03 Sep 2011 21:53:25 +0100

The last few days have been very productive and exciting for me, as we come to the end of our trip to Yorkshire. Yesterday I ticked my project "Zoolook" 8a (just after Robbie - team ascent!) - a route which had taken a fair bit of patience to learn the sequence and cope with polished footholds! The route finally went down on our 3rd attempt of the day - something just seemed "right" and both of us focussed on doing the move rather than worrying about our feet slipping!

Straight after ticking "Zoolook", Robbie put the clips in "GBH" 8a+ and worked out the moves. Today I had a go working out the moves then went for a redpoint burn - getting up to the crux and coming off on a powerful undercut move (of which there are many!) Robbie ticked the route 3rd go - an awesome effort! I am hoping to feel refreshed tomorrow (our last day of climbing ahhh!) and get it done. It really would be the icing on the cake if I manage to do it, hopefully the fact that we will have limited time before getting the train home will be an incentive to fight for it!

Chilling at the top of Malham...nearly hometime! Will Carroll

Tonight more good news arrived as I received an invite to join the GB Bouldering Team via email - an offer I am very excited about! After my 4th place in the BBC's I am psyched to improve on this and to experience the international bouldering comps. Through following my bouldering-orientated training program, I am really starting to see the benefits of having extra strength both on the boulder wall and on routes - indoors and out.

Another exciting development is my offer of sponsorship from Blurr - the American climbing clothing brand just starting to branch out into the UK. I have chosen my first 15 items for next season (I was tearing my hair out trying to decide on clothes and colours! :P ) and can't wait for the gear to arrive.

Today I helped out a little with Robbie and Ross's MCofS coaching session at Malham with young Angus Davidson and William Bosi - both Ratho climbers and GB junior team members. They had an awesome time, both sending "Something Stupid" 7b 2nd go and William redpointing "Space Race" 7b+ 2nd go! Tomorrow we are returning early to the crag to get back on projects and get some sends in before heading home....FINALLY! :P

We have had a great trip so far, let's see what tomorrow brings...

Goodbye Malham! Will Carroll

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"Zoolook" - The 1/4 Life Crisis

Fri, 02 Sep 2011 22:24:28 +0100

Since our last coaching trip, Nat and I have been pretty much knackered! All our energy, all our skin and all our motivation has dwindled and fallen away, we are empty shells of our former selves... I think a mixture of camping, cooking, climbing and coaching has drained us, without a car we can't get much new food, of which we've been running a little low recently (thanks to Dalvinder for the groceries) and sleeping in a tent has definitely taken it's wear on us.

Anyway, enough moaning... I decided next to face a route that has looked good ever since I've arrived, "Zoolook" (8a). Not wanting to sound like an arrogant prat, I figured, just another 8a, I'll do this as a bit of mileage before looking at something harder... I want to slap my past self for thinking this! Although the route isn't physically hard, nor is it technically that hard, it's bloody awkward and polished to HELL!!!!! Nat went up on it first, I figured I might go for the flash. Unfortunately Nat didn't manage to get up past last crux due to sore skin, tiredness and probably a lack of sleep. So anyway, I went for it, the starting crux wasn't that hard for me, I think a mixture of being a bit taller and having good hip flexibility allowed me to make the first crux without any bother. I walked my way up to the second crux (pulling the bulge), getting a good shakeout below was handy as it didn't seem like there was much rest after this. I headed through the overlap and where I had seen others struggle, I seemed to be ok. Still not pumped, I looked around for the next hold... A few moves later and I was totally blind, people shouting different things from below I was totally scuppered, I threw for a side pull that turned out to be an intermediate undercut and I fell. After a brief rest, I pulled back on and went to the top! After a quick glance through the crux, I figured it wasn't that hard and I put it off until next go.

A day later, my confidence took another beating as I fell moving through the crux on my second attempt. A third attempt saw me slip again at the same point moving to a crimp off a good undercut.

Another day later I fell again at this same point on my fourth go! My feet feel like rollerblades on these damn footholds. I'm not remotely tired, pumped or in any way struggling with anything but keeping my feet on the footholds moving through the crux.

Today I was determined to do this route, out of a want never to give up, because I felt like a spanner falling off it so many times, but mostly out of spite! Two more falls due to foot slippage and I was tearing my hair out... Before my final burn on the route that day (if you can call it a "burn", more like a stroll until someone trips you up and you fall flat on your face), another climber at the crag, Stu Littlefair suggested spitting on my shoes for a bit extra stickiness for the polished footholds. Like magic sticky spit from heaven, they stuck to the polished smears like glue and as I crossed over to the final hold off the crux, I had enough time to do a quick chalk and blow (my impression of flipping off a route whilst climbing)... That's what I call an EPIC!!!!

Nat, also having similar difficulties with the route rocked up after me and despatched the route with similarly solid climbing (I think she may have actually swore at the footholds from the resting jugs : P).

At the end of the day I got on "GBH" (8a+), a left hand variant to "Zoolook", starting at the same point and finishing on the same chains with only a 4-5 clips of difference verging out left instead of going out right (Zoolook). Amazingly, although not surprising, "GBH" felt quite a bit easier for me. The moves are more athletic but without the polished smears and uncertainty that "Zoolook" has. Hopefully I will despatch this tomorrow if I can grow some skin back before then.

Also, my two young padawans from Edinburgh, Angus and William are joining us tomorrow. We have a few routes lined up for them to try including:

"Free and even easier" (7a+)
"Bongo Fury" (7b)
"Something Stupid" (7b)
"Space Race" (7b+)

Untitled from Robbie Phillips on Vimeo.

ROBZ OUT

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Not long to go...so much to do!

Thu, 01 Sep 2011 16:44:24 +0100

Hey guys! We are nearing the end of our 4 week stint in Yorkshire Pudding land. We are still going strong on porridge, oatcakes, houmous, and flapjacks (we will turn into oats soon enough if we don't stop eating foods consisting of them!) and our nighttime dinners of pasta, veg and chorizo sausage! The weather is steady and not as unpredictable as the first three weeks, but we are definitely feeling a bit jaded after working so hard in our coaching sessions and redpointing our routes at the Cove. Reading Harry Potter at the top of Malham Cove (where some scenes of the last film were shot) in the evening has become a habit of ours and is a good way to relieve redpoint stress!

I have been getting frustratingly close to doing "Zoolook" 8a - each time I go up I learn something new about the sequence, and tomorrow I hope to get it done if I manage to keep my head together! Last attempt went really well, I got through the crux and felt calm as I reached up for a good sidepull. I then had a total mind-blank with my foot sequence and dithered too much, going for a tricky undercut pocket with my left-hand and falling due to not catching it properly. Robbie is also planning an attack on this route as well as "The Groove" 8a+. Conditions have been a bit muggy over the last few days and today we are taking a well-earned rest.

Raindogs...the windmill move

We have now finished our Yorkshire Sport Climbing weekends, which went really well. Our last group included Nina, Stewart and Andrew - Ratho regulars who all had varied experience on rock before coming to Yorkshire. Stewart (Andrew's Dad) was a keen trad climber in his youth and was looking for some hints and tips on getting back into the sport climbing game on rock. Andrew (18) had primarily been trad climbing before coming on the trip, and hadn't pushed his sport grades as much. Nina was looking for help with transferring her indoor skills onto the rock, after having only started climbing in January this year.

Our first day was spent at Robin Proctor's Scar, not too far from Malham. We started on some easier topropes to get everyone's head in the game and focus purely on movement without worrying too much about clipping/falling etc. I filmed the first climbs for comparison with their later attempts on other routes, and it was very interesting to watch how quickly Stewart and Andrew adapted to the rock, moving much smoother and quicker than when they first started warming up. Nina was having difficulty with trusting her feet and having the confidence to commit to moves, however she did fantastic for her first time on real rock and we reassured her that almost everyone has difficulty when climbing outdoors for the first time, where there are no coloured blobs to follow and many possibilities for movement! Stewart flashed a 6b+ on lead and Andrew redpointed it shortly after his first go. Work started on the project of the trip - a techy 6c+. Both tried the moves on toprope to scope out the sequences, aided by some tickmarks on the holds courtesy of Robbie!

On the second day the weather let us down at Robin Proctor's so we only had a half day there before getting rained off! We headed to Malham and the guys had a play on "Rose Coronary" 7a and Nina also had a go on toprope before settling for "Begozi and the Ledge Lizards" 6a+. Nina loved Malham and her confidence was starting to grow - her performance on these routes was much more in control than at Robin Proctor's, things were looking up for the next two days!

We decided to start off at Giggleswick Scar for a morning warm-up and to test out some of the 5's and 6's the crag had to offer. Nina flashed a 5+ on toprope, making very easy work of it, and the guys both flashed some 6a's and looked on form for getting back to work on the 6c+ at Robin Proctor's in the afternoon. It was a wild and windy day, absolutely freezing and not the best conditions for sending, but the boys did a great job - both falling near the top and giving the climb their all. Nina top-roped a 6a+ with ease and was really starting to enjoy the climbing for what it was without the fear of falling or being high up. Everyone was psyched for the next day, when the project would be going down!

We finally struck lucky with the weather and the sun came out to cheer on our rock warriors at Robin Proctor's. Andrew gave the 6c+ a great first attempt, falling off just below the chains. His Dad Stewart had a lot to live up to after that attempt, he was nervous but psyched! He cruised up the route and battled through the tricky top moves, he threw for a crimp, stepped up and was at the top! Mission complete for Stewart! Meanwhile, Nina gave the classic 6a+ of the crag "Wheel of Fire" a great attempt, getting through the crux and slipping just after halfway. Andrew was raring to go on the 6c+ again after a good rest and went through the sequence again with Robbie. He was looking smooth and composed himself before going for it at the top...an easier sequence helped him reach the top and clip the chains - another 6c+ for the team!

Not satisfied with the 6c+ ticks, Andrew decided that he wanted to try "Rose Coronary" 7a again at Malham, giving it a final burn before leaving for Scotland. Stewart decided that he was too fatigued after the 6c+ to try "Rose Coronary" after giving it a good attempt on a previous day, but Andrew was keen to get it ticked. He fell off at the chains just before it was time to leave, but he decided he wanted to give it a final go - and he did it! 6c+ and 7a in a day - a personal record for Andrew who had lead-climbed 6c before coming on the trip. In all, a very successful 4 days of climbing, all 3 climbers learned something new and accrued some useful experiences to take home with them and reflect on when next on a rock-trip.

Off for some chorizo and pasta...stay tuned for more updates from the Cove!

At the top of Malham Cove

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There's no "Justice"... Or is there?

Sun, 28 Aug 2011 00:27:40 +0100

22/08/11

Today has been an enlightening day for both myself and Nat. First of all, we headed to the crag early on, with no Will to slow us down we were off at 10am, eager to get our renewed fingertips shredded on some Malham razor blade crimps. My plan for the day was more attempts on "Unjustified" (8b+), the previous day having had one attempt working out the moves. Nat was psyched to get stuck back into "Overnite Sensation" (8a+), finally something that has at least provided her with a bit of a challenge.

Scoping out "Totally Free" (8b) and looking for signs of HARRY POTTER!!!!

After warming up on "Rose Coronary" (7a), I decided that any more warming up might reduce my fingertips to bleeding stumps, so I got straight on the project. I was so psyched, despite being in the full blast of the sun I managed to work my way up straight into the bulging overhang and fell on the last move of the crux! Psyched for more, I worked the rest of the route and managed to dial the moves a bit better than previously, figuring out a cool new way of back 3 stacking the right hand flatty jug for optimum resting capabilities (sounds very technical... It's not).

In the period between my next attempt, Nat had an go on "Overnite Sensation". It was horrendously hot now and the sun was beating down causing all the tiny crimpy edges to practically sizzle with skin contact. Not only does the polish become even worse in the sun, but also thanks to Malham's gleaming White colour, all the footholds become beacons of reflection to the suns rays and blind climbers all over the crag - basically the footholds are impossible to see! Nat got on with it anyway and did a bit more work on the upper section of the route, practicing the moves and gaining valuable sending knowledge.

First contact with Malham Tarn locals

I decided climbing in the sun today wasn't as good an idea as previously thought and so I opted out of trying my route until a little later in the day. It wasn't so bad as we were visited now by Adam Jeewooth and friends. It was cool to hang with them at the crag for the day, I learned a few bits and bobs from Adam (namely that he didn't bother with my poncy drop knee after the crux and instead just threw for the slopey crimp, not much help to me and my weak fingers) on "Unjustified" as he had climbed it the year before. He apparently also campussed the crux of "Predator" because his feet couldnt reach the footholds... BEAST!!!

Nat crushing on "Predator" (8b)

When the sun passed over Malham, I got off my butt and went for my third attempt on the project. It's amazing what a bit of shade can do, the 7b "Something Stupid" (start of "Unjustified") didn't feel nearly as hard as it did earlier! I managed to get all the way up to the crux, I was a little nervous heading into it and was feeling the dampness of the undercuts (they seem to maintain a horrible goopyness within them). Before I knew it I was past the crux and dropping my knee about to pop into the slopey crimp! Unfortunately my foot blew of the foothold as i slapped for the crimp and I was off... Still I was well chuffed that I managed to get that far. After a brief rest, I got back on the rope and linked it straight to the top... I'm going to hope for a bit of cloud cover tomorrow and hopefully some skin growth overnight, perhaps I can sneak a cheeky 8b+ in before Verdon : P

After my best attempt yet, Nat obviously inspired (joke) blasted through the crux of her project and got a new highpoint, only slipping after resting at the halfway point. Both of us are psyched for what tomorrow may bring. On the walk out of Malham tonight we were stunned to see a saltire shaped cloud in the sky, perhaps this is a sign?

"Overnite Sensation" (8a+) - Robbie Phillips from Robbie Phillips on Vimeo.

27/08/11

So we haven't managed to get to Malham since the start of our latest coaching group. We have been catering to the climbing demands of our new team of psyched up climbers, Stewart, Andrew and Nina. For the last couple of days we've been hitting Robin Proctors Scar, a crag favourite of ours as it's scenic, tends to stay dry and has a good selection of quality routes in the f5-6c region.

Behind every sponsored climber, there's a cameraman : P

We have seen some brilliant climbing done by thoses three. Stewart managed his first 6b+ onsight (lead), Andrew did the same 6b+ 2nd go and Nina has been making brilliant progress trying to overcome her fears. It's been certainly challenging work with Nina, as she has a real phobia of the climbing at Robin Proctors. The crag isn't very hard in difficulty but it tends to be committing at places with very exposed sections of wall. Amazingly, Nina found climbing at Malham Cove way more pleasant and had no worries here with the exposed nature of the climbs. Perhaps because it feels more like a climbing wall? Tomorrow we are going to head to Giggleswick in the morning to get a bit more mileage before heading back to Robin's. Andrew and Stewart have a 6c+ project on the go whilst Nina has to overcome her fears on the dreaded exposed 6a! We also have to make a trip back to Malham at some point as Andrew and Stewart have made excellent progress on "Rose Coronary" (7a) and are determined to finish it!

Today was a good day for me and Nat. At the end of the coaching day, despite being incredibly nackered, I thought I might as well have a blast on "Unjustified" (8b+) since the shade has come in. Nat had a blast on "Zoolook" (8a) just before and got really high up and almost through the final crux, hopefully this shouldn't take her too much more to get ticked. I had one attempt on "Unjustified" got into the crux but my foot slipped just as I was moving through the bulge. To my horror, I had smudged a massive bit of slime over the foothold (I must have kicked some off the wet streak) and this caused my foot to slip off. A bit pissed off since I was feeling so good, I decided to have a rest and try again after cleaning the foothold. I spoke to the coaching group about the pressure of Redpointing, this helped me to free things up in my mind. I think I have been getting a little too pressured with this route since I got through the crux on my third go. Ever since them I've been feeling the pressure, especially when I did the route from the end of the 7b to the top. Talking to everyone about it really helped me realise that I was taking the route too seriously and relieved a lot of the pressure. On my last attempt of the day (9th overall), just as the very last glimpses of light were leaving the crag, I went for it. The 7b section went smoothly, I got into the roof, had a quick shake out on the undercuts and breezed through the crux. I managed to shake out a little on every move, every hold after the crux i was solid and didn't feel at all like I was pushing it too much. The last hard move to the two mini jugs (rest point before the last clip to the chain) was a but of a lock, but i felt steady up to reaching it, a nice feeling when climbing on 8b+/c ground. I got full recovery at the rest and went straight to the top!

Frustrated on rest days! Back 3 Table Boarding @ Ye Olde Naked Man Cafe - Settle

I think this is one of my biggest accomplishments to date. Although it didn't take too much time, I did feel the stress of Redpointing. This was mainly due to conditions being available only at the very last hours of the day and me being the impatient guy that I am, can never be bothered waiting, always seeming to get on it when it's in the sun, ruining my skin and then sacking it off until another day, hoping for cloud cover (that never comes unless we are at another crag coaching).

Resting @ the top of "Predator" (8b)

The route didn't feel anywhere near as hard as "Dures Limites" (8c), a route I was close to in Ceuse. This was at least a grade easier, but I think "Dures Limites" is considered a hard 8c so that would make sense. I reckon "Unjustified" is 8b+ and probably steady at the grade. Definitely harder than other 8b's at Malham, but I've done 8b's in Europe that I thought weren't too far off the mark. Despite the grade debate, an amazing route, amazing line and I'm psyched to have done it! Thanks to Nat for holding the rope and apologies to those that heard my profanities... Namely Toby : )

Also, big up to rudeboi Ed Hamer, 2nd in the World!!!

ROBZ OUT

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Overnite Sensation!

Wed, 24 Aug 2011 12:44:14 +0100

Yesterday was a very long and tiring day. We got up reasonably early and sat outside the tent wondering what to do - if it was going to be too hot and sunny to climb, we didn't want to bother going to the crag and would rest instead. It was fairly overcast and cooler than the day before, so we decided to head up to the Cove a bit later on with our objectives in mind - to crush our projects! We lazed around reading and drawing and watching the wasps devour a massive blob of honey which we had put on a spoon to distract them from trying to get at our breakfast. I also drew out a route map of "Overnite Sensation" on the back of some cardboard from the cereal box! (I was very bored!)

Upon arriving at the crag, our friends informed us that conditions were rubbish - greasy holds and muggy heat! I've never liked letting conditions obstruct my desire to climb a route - I sometimes think that worrying too much about whether holds are damp or greasy prevents you from really going for things. We warmed up on a 7a+ and top-roped it again to get a bit more of a pump on. As the sun broke through the clouds in the early afternoon, we took it easy and relaxed on the Catwalk for an hour or two.

At the top of the Cove...don't look down! Will Carroll

My project "Overnite Sensation" 8a+ was the first to come into the shade out of our routes, so I looked at my little drawing on the cereal box cardboard - complete with footholds, clips and little memory-jogging notes such as "camp crimp!" (only Robbie and Will would understand :P ) - and compared my sketch to the route. I had remembered it perfectly and had what I thought was a perfect sequence. I tied in and stepped up to the tricky boulder problem at the start. I placed my feet on the tiny polished crozzles and hoped that they would stick, I reached the last hold of the boulder crux just after the first clip and jumped up to a good sloper and gaston edge. I clipped and breathed and continued. I tried to rest in a position which Robbie had used when he climbed the route, but it wasn't as comfortable as I found it to be when working the route. I pushed on and fell after my foot slipped going for a good side-pull crimp halfway up - it was the same as my last highpoint. I was frustrated to get to the same place again but equally pretty happy that I had made it through the boulder again at the start. I re-worked the big move and found a much easier way of throwing for it without using a polished foothold! After falling I did the route to the top in one push so was satisfied to have completed it in two halves - next go I would have the ultimate sequence and really wanted to get it done!

Robbie was still waiting for the shade to come in on "Unjustified", so I decided to have another go. I pulled on and found that I was too slow in moving my feet around, getting a bit confused with the footholds. I was annoyed that I had managed to get through this section twice before fairly easily and now it felt hard again, I got a bit frustrated and tried again, but was tiring from hanging onto the tiny sharp crozzles. My skin was wearing thin and my energy was waning. I decided to leave it until after Robbie had tried his route and relax for a bit with some bran flakes and oatcakes!

Working "Predator" 8b. Will Carroll

"Unjustified" was now in the shade and Robbie was psyched to get on it - he had been waiting all day for this moment! He cruised up the start - a tricky 7b - and smoothly climbed through the crux before his foot slipped going for the next hold. A brilliant effort, but he was not satisfied with the sequence and re-worked a bit of it and did some cleaning of the holds on the way down.

The air was much cooler now and the herds of tourists staring up at the Cove were diminishing. I knew I just had to relax and not get too pent up about doing the route, I needed to enjoy it. Adam Jeewooth and his Uncle Carl (and dog Treacle) had been following my attempts on the route with enthusiasm, and as I tied in Carl said "This go Nat?" "Yeah I hope so!" I replied. I took a deep breath and began to climb. I felt very calm and the boulder problem went much easier than before. I shook out by the second clip and tried to keep up my breathing - the holds get bigger as you go higher on this route, but at the same time the distance between them starts to increase! I got to my previous highpoint and used the new foot position, which sent me flying directly to the crimp. I was relieved, surprised and nervous all at the same time. Now I had to do the rest! One big move to a flat, open pinch and then into two undercut sidepulls for a quick rest.The next move from an undercut and gaston to a good tufa was one of the biggest moves on the route for me - feet high, I lunged for it and caught it. Then into a poor block undercut (at this point I actually spotted a small insect on the hold, and rather than squash it by grabbing onto the hold, I opted instead to politely poke it out of the way!) and into the top of the tufa as an undercut. I clipped and shook out straight-armed, breathed deep and smiled - the chain was in sight! A powerful cross-through to a sidepull and then a shouldery press off a gaston into the "Camp Crimp"! I turned my left hand from a gaston into an undercut and threw from a sidepull to a bad pinch just below the chains. I snatched for an intermediate sidepull with my left to balance myself and move my right foot up and flagged really deep...catching the final crimp before rocking over and clipping the chain!

I was so shocked that I had managed to complete it - even though I had climbed the route in two halves before, I thought it would take a lot to keep going through the final hard moves without falling. I was completely out of breath at the top and struggled to take the clips out! Robbie, Adam, Carl and some other climbers at the crag were all cheering as I topped out - I was grateful for their support, I think it definitely helped to bring out the aggression I needed to keep fighting!

Getting psyched! Will Carroll

After my ascent Robbie was unsure as to whether he should have another go on "Unjustified". He decided he might as well seeing as the next day would be a rest day. He had another good attempt but felt tired and instead worked on finding some sneaky rests! Judging from today I reckon he is certainly not far at all from ticking this route, and it will be an awesome achievement to climb such a route at Malham.

I am not sure what to do next. I think I will have a day of mileage tomorrow, onsighting some easier routes and maybe getting on "Zoolook" 8a or "Predator" 8b. At the moment we are in the pub (again!) waiting for a meeting with someone about something exciting...

Natalie

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Rain, rock and Raindogs!

Sun, 21 Aug 2011 21:11:33 +0100

Hey everyone,

Sorry for the lack of blogging since Ceuse, so much has been happening and I've not had the time to put it down on paper (or on a computer screen :p) We are currently in the pub which has become our "local" over the last while!

We have been in Yorkshire for a week and a half now and have already undertaken our first successful coaching group as part of our 3 "Yorkshire sport climbing weekends". We have also managed to get a bit of climbing for ourselves in on the side in between coaching sessions and the psyche is now high for our projects at Malham Cove.

Robbie and I arrived in Yorkshire to be greeted by the worst rain I have ever experienced! Torrential downpours were not ideal for setting up and living in a tent for 3 weeks, but we were determined not to let the weather get in the way of our work and climbing. Positive thought and "sundances" were brought on in order to dissuade the rain from destroying moral and dampening our hopes of having a good time. Luckily, we somehow escaped the worst of the weather and managed to find some dry rock...

Our first group consisted of Ben from London and Pete from Edinburgh. Both guys went from strength to strength over the 4 days - overcoming fear and doubt and generally being enthusiastic and good fun to work with. Ben managed to lead his first 6c+ and toprope his first 7a outdoors, and Pete successfully lead his first 6b+ outside! Our crags of choice were Robin Proctor's Scar and Trow gill for the first three days, and Malham Cove on the fourth. Tired but enlightened by their experience, Ben and Pete learned a lot from focussing on redpoint tactics and movement skills on the rock - I am sure both will continue to push their grades with their newfound confidence.

In the few days we had before our first coaching group, I had been working on building up some mileage on the classic 7a's and 7b's at Malham. I did some classics such as "Consenting Adults" 7a and "Rose Coronary" 7a, and onsighted a 7b called "Something Stupid". My sights were set on "Raindogs" 8a, a route which has been on my ticklist since I was very young indeed! I had tried the route two years ago but only made it up to the second clip, finding the moves very powerful and hard, perhaps due to climbing in the baking sun! This time I went for a retro-flash attempt and made it halfway before falling. I worked the moves to the top and felt confident that I had a good sequence, the hard part would be linking these together! My first red point (second attempt) went pretty well, I made it to the second-last clip, powering out at an undercut move which takes you onto the final crimpy section below the chains. I was psyched and thought it could go potentially on my third try, I had new beta which would make that move easier and didn't feel very pumped up until that point.

My next go I got to the last hold before the chains, finding it awkward and strenuous to move my feet up after having climbed the rest of the route and feeling slightly jaded! I reworked the sequence ready for the next day's attempt. I knew I had a perfect sequence (or did I?) and went for it the next morning. I had the last hold and eyed up the chains, pulling as hard as I could...two fingers wrapped around the screwgate...before slipping out promptly. I was very frustrated as I had felt composed up until that move, I think I hesitated a little too much rather than just going for it! The next two attempts were a similar story, perhaps getting even closer to grabbing the screwgate! I also found a hold which made the last move feel slightly less dynamic, so I was happy to have picked up on that after falling off in frustration and refusing to go back on the wall! I decided to leave it for a day and when I next got on the route, I knew I had no excuse not to be able to do it- I had a perfected sequence and the only thing that could potentially hold me back was doubt, or a polish-induced foot-slip! I felt reasonably relaxed as I began to climb the first section, and chilled out at the first and only rest. I continued, climbing quickly in order to preserve energy and keep up a rhythm. Nearing the chains I felt much more in control and even the holds seemed more welcoming than normal. I used the tiny intermediate and balanced myself to go for the chain...and latched it! I had climbed my first 8a in Britain and my 6th so far this year.

After my success on Raindogs, I decided to work the moves on Predator 8b. I really enjoyed the first section, thinking it was about 7b/+ and tried the crux section a few times, finding the holds fairly positive but the feet very perplexing! Eventually my skin was wearing thin so I decided to come down and try again another time. I had a second attempt and made it up to the crux without falling, trying the moves numerous times to work out the best sequence. I think the route will take a good few attempts and more working but I am psyched to return to it in the next few sessions! I am currently working on "Overnite Sensation" 8a+, a short and powerful route with a cruxy boulder start. I really like the climbing despite the first sharp holds which are very painful to hold and throw for! Tomorrow I really want to try and get it ticked, it will take lots of determination and aggression but I think I am getting into the zone of Malham's tricky style - powerful techy moves with bad footholds and lots of core strength!

Robbie has also had a very successful first few sessions, ticking "Overnite sensation" 8a+, "Predator" 8b and "Austrian Oak" 8b, each within four tries! He has now set his sights on "Unjustified" 8b+/c and looks set to keep on crushing. He has put together a great video of me on "Raindogs" and is currently sat beside me making one of him on "Overnite"...watch this space!

Today we said goodbye to our friend, photographer and chauffeur (:p) Will Carroll, who has been a fantastic help with setting up ropes and taking amazing photos as always! We already miss him and have stockpiled on food until we can catch a lift off someone else into Settle...

With four more days of climbing until our next coaching session, keep reading for more updates from the Cove!]]>