The grit was made famous worldwide after the movie “Hard Grit” was released in the late 90’s. Whenever I travel abroad, the moment it becomes obvious that I’m British (which is generally instant), I am queried about grit… Almost as if this island we live on is just one massive gritstone blob bobbing in and out of the sea :P Well I have a confession to make folks, I’ve not really spent much time on the grit… In fact my time on the grit can be narrowed down to half a day at Stanage bouldering and another spent top roping “Flying Buttress”. Saying that I’ve spent a bit of time recently on the sandstone of Northumberland (my local) and although it is finer grain, there are certainly similar characteristics style and rock formation.
What with the history embedded in gritstone, I kind of feel a little bit intimidated by it. You’d think that a bunch of sandy boulders barely 15m high on average surely wouldn’t be that scary? But I think because as I grew up, the reputation of the grit has been so prevalent in the media, it was always this looming rock that would forever feel scary and formidable to me.John Dunne on the FA
Because I have been getting well into my in trad recently, it made sense to take a trip down to the gritstone and get on a couple of the classics. But being me, I always love a challenge and I wanted to jump straight into the deep end! I contacted a friend of mine, Jacob Cook. We had been discussing gritstone plans for a while and on the cards, “Gaia” and “End of the Affair” had been climbs most often mentioned. I had even almost done a trip down for “Gaia” shortly before my Spain (Chulilla) trip, but weather got the better of us.
Jacob recommended “New Statesman” as a good route for me to try… arguably a very big step into gritstone and not what you would call a standard entry level climb, but it’s an amazing line and there is no harm in trying. Jacob had already climbed it and has even added his own harder variation on the same wall.
I really laid on the pressure with “New Statesman”. Committing myself to trying this with basically no gritstone experience and also brought along Euan Ryan (Finalcrux Films) to film the ascent for an upcoming series documenting my climbing adventures. The plan wasn’t to lead it this trip, simply to work it and figure out what I needed to do in order to make a successful ascent. I had more or less said to myself that this would probably take a good few trips to nail and I didn’t want to rush anything!
Working “New Statesman” was certainly an experience of intense learning and adaptation. I discovered many possible ways to climb the route; but what I wanted was a method that delivered success with the least likeliness of pre-sending failures, any of which might have involved broken bones and a swift end to the climbing season for me! So you can understand why I didn’t want to fall off!Working "New Statesman" sporting my Urban Uprising Tee :D
I played about with the sequences a bit, but by the end of my first day working the route I found my beta after a successful clean top rope from the ground. When this happens, it’s a flurry of emotions… you’ve done the route; all that’s left is to get on the sharp end and climb it “for real”! Not as simple as it might first appear…
I needed a nights rest to ponder my situation. The option to lead it was on the table and I was ebbing strongly in favour for this. The rest of that night I relaxed and had some good fun on my longboard with the guys :D
The next day, it took me the best part of 2 hours to get in the zone; which involved quite a number of false starts. I phoned a friend (Neil McGeachy) for some advice and discussed tactics with Charlie (my belayer). Neil’s advice was simple yet effective… the route would still be here next week. There was no pressure today and to drive home without it would in some ways be a more rememberable experience than to have ticked it off in a weekend. This calmed me down, relieving all pressure and strangely enough I felt hyped up to lead it now!
I had a stare down session with the route; I listened to music and stared at the climb… like an opponent in a duel I approached the climb with deadly seriousness and ambition, I didn’t want to let this beat me, I didn’t want to go away with my tail between my legs. The song “Sleep Forever” by “Portugal. The Man” rung through my headphones…
I stood below the climb reminding myself as I often do of the pointlessness of it all… I am spending hours, days, and years of my life obsessing over rocks, puzzling them out and getting emotional about climbing them; what a silly fool!
On the redpoint I was eerily calm inside… confident in every hand hold, every foot placemen; I knew I could do it! There was no doubt, not even a slither; I had this! As I came to the top of the highball crux section I gave a small power scream to shut out negativity; but that had been killed off long ago!
I rested a bit, then pressed on gaining higher and higher on the climb. It was now feeling quite airy for a boulder, but luckily here comes the comforting gear that famously ripped on Michale Caminati when he fell at the final crux. Staring ahead at the oncoming sequence of smeary unbalanceness above the fated gear that may or may not hold was a curious position to be in; but I was calm… there was nothing that could go wrong! I executed everything precisely and had nothing to fear… and then it was over!On the lead...
Questions cropped up as to why I decided to lead that day. One honest reason is ego… Perhaps it got the better of me? I wanted success and didn’t want to experience a drive back to Edinburgh knowing failure! But that wasn’t the real reason… I think it’s only a feeling you get when you’ve been in this situation but I knew I could do it! In the morning I wasn’t capable of climbing 3m up this thing; and yet after lunch I was impervious to any negative thoughts!
Climbing “New Statesman” for me was a huge step forward in my climbing career. Ego aside (as that’s where I often like to put it), climbing this particular bit of rock was a challenge for me in numerous ways and I learned much from the experience. You can’t put a price on experience and you certainly can’t grade it!
“E” is for “Experience” in this case; not “Extreme” :D
Ethics
One final note goes out in response to some of those who questioned the ethics climbing “New Statesman”.
First of all, my current stance on trad climbing is this:
I think those are some pretty widely accepted notions of what trad climbing is about. I don’t pretend that others won't think differently, but from talking to experienced trad climbers they mostly agree with these points.
I used pads because I figured it would be safer. I’d say that’s reason enough. I am aware that John Dunne didn’t use mats during the FA, but there have been many ascents of this climb since then that have all involved them. I don't conclude that my ascent was better or even on par with John Dunne’s… first of all he did it as a FA, so that’s pretty much as good as it gets! And I’m not too fussed if anybody wants to go repeat it with a bed of nails under them, it’s not a competition about who is bolder (but maybe it is for someone?); it’s climbing a rock at the end of the day… anybody who gets off on being the “big man” by climbing a rock in a particular way should probably reassess life goals; but I’m not going to judge too harshly as I have been that same guy many times before.
Ethics are really funny because what was ethically disdained upon 10 years ago; today is common practice. Some of the folk who have been against the use of mats are the same folk who practiced head-pointing when ground up and onsight style was considered standard and head-pointing was considered “cheating”. My take on this is, as time goes on ethics change… it’s really quite simple and a natural progression to the world and not just our meager little past time of clambering about on rocks.
Grades are a big part of climbing in the 21st century, but I like to remember that they are man-made and not essential to life!
If I could get across one thing in this blog post it would be this:
“Last week I climbed a rock. I got to the top. I was happy. Some people liked my facebook pictures. Some did not. The End.”
Spotting Charlie on the E1 solo/highball
The last 3 days has been fun from start to finish. Nat and I have been away on a short trip to the UK sport climbing mecca of Yorkshire. As much as we love hopping on planes and jet setting off to sun baked crags in central Europe, we still find ourselves coming back to the land of puddings, rippers and grumpy farmers. To be frank, you can't go that wrong when you've got a 30minute drive radius from three of the biggest and best limestone crags in the country (Kilnsey, Malham and Gordale).
I have spent only a few days in Kilnsey and that was a number of years ago now. Unfortunately we didn't get a chance to visit this time but I'm looking forward to future trips. Malham is where I have spent most of my time in Yorkshire and I can't quite get enough of it. Everytime I go there I find new routes that entice me, keeping that flame for Malham burning. Until this trip I had never actually climbed at Gordale crag, but if you read on you'll hear that I am glad I didn't leave it any longer.
Day 1 - Malham on the Upper Tier
Three of us (myself, Nat and Will Carroll) drove down on the Friday afternoon to make it there by the evening. It was a leisurely journey with a few hours spent in Penrith dining at a very nice Italian restaurant Will had recommended. The following day we were meeting up with pro photographer and film maker Jen Randall as she was wanting to film Nat for an upcoming climbing movie. As well as Jen, we were also meeting up with some old friends Chris and Catherine Speakman who are lucky enough to live in the village of Settle only 10minutes drive from Malham!!!
As we were there for only a short while we decided to do quicker ticks on easier routes (that and everything else was wet). We headed up to the Upper tier and attempted our first routes of the trip, "Herbie" (7c+) for myself and Nat, and "Obsession" (7b+) for Will. I had a good onsight burn on "Herbie" falling off high into the final crux whilst Nat's on her flash attempt was similar, falling only a couple of moves lower down. We both busted it out on our second attempt without much trouble, both climbing it in very different styles:
Nat - Slow, precise and completely statico!!!
Robbie - Fast, fluid and definitely not static :P
It's crazy watching Nat climb the same moves as me but in her own unique style. When I climb dynamically, she is generally very controlled. A good example of this was half-way through the crux on "Herbie" - you take a positive, fat pinch with your right hand and pull through to an even better pinch with your left. For me this was a big move and one that I preferred to do quickly... Nat just latched that pinch with vice-like grip and continued to lock slowly from straight arm to a completely full lock before she slowly release her left hand and eased it up to reach the next pinch with as much control and precision as a robotic arm in one of those Xsara Picasso adverts (I think she's from outer space - that or an android from the future).
Will had already started battling with "Obsession" (7b+) alongside Chris who had joined us for the day. Nat and I moved onto our next climb for the day, a spicy little number recommended by a fellow climber at the crag, "L'Obsession" (7c+). I was keen to try my hand at onsighting this as I had made quite a good attempt on "Herbie". Unfortunately I didn't quite make it, I fell off on the last move of the crux (but only just). After climbing through and to the top I feel that if I had made the move I would actually have done the climb from there, but hey ho, thats just how the ball rolls in this old game we call onsight climbing.
It was Nat's turn now, I gave her as much beta as I could and she went for the flash attempt - this I think was the best climbing I saw all weekend! Nat cruised the crux making it look about 6a and then pathed up to the last clip at which point she got confused, I forgot what holds she was to use and she kind of gave up. She had an amazing burn on the flash, it's the best climbing I have seen her do at Malham and everyone was super impressed. Feeling as though I better do something quick before she burns me off again, I mustered up some psyche and quickly despatched "L'obsession" on my second try (it felt a lot easier after watching Nat climb it so well). Nat had a second go burn on it but unfortunately messed up then end more due to lack of skin than anything else in my opinion.
It was time to call it a day, so we headed back to camp and rested well before tomorrows climbing...
Day 2 - Malham Filming
Today was not my day, this was mostly dedicated to Nat and her film crew :P Jen Randall and Dom Bush filmed Nat climbing "L'obsession" (on the send) early on then got some good footage of her attempting "Toadall Recall" (8a). I attempted to retro-flash this route placing the draws as my first route of the day. I first tried this climb about 3 years ago, only once and had forgotten everything about it mostly so I was very happy when I made it through all the hard climbing and fell stupidly from the final crimpy face section staring at the chains. It wasn't so bad as I did it second go and it felt quite steady for the grade.
Nat tried it after I set up the ropes for filming. I bigged her up for the flash as I thought it would suit her. In general I think it did suit her style, but sometimes its difficult to tell if certain moves that I find "not too bad" won't be too shouldery or powerful for her. There is a big difference between girls and guys generally and although Nat could be stronger than me on some route types, powerful and shouldery moves are always going to be easier for me thanks to my height and genetically superior upper body strength (because I'm a guy). There was one move (the crux) up high that Nat basically couldn't reach without an insanely awkward and very contorted hand sequence - the move for me was a basic right hand press to reach a good crimp, hardly even worth calling the crux once I figured out the best foot beta.
Will was making fantastic progress on "Obsession" and had successfully made one of the coolest moves I've ever seen apart of his routine sequence (see pic). On the last attempt of the day, after he literally said to me whilst tying his climbing shoes "I'll just take the draws down when I reach the top", he made the send! It was a good climb and I can quite happily say that I think it was the best I've seen Will climb in all the years I've known him - GOOD JOB!
Day 3 - Gordale... GOARN!!!!!!!!
GORDALE IS A VERY WOODY WORD ISN'T IT!?!?!?!
As I said before, I have never actually climbed here before yet I have heard so much about it! I have suffered years of friends telling me epic tales of climbing in the mega crag of Gordale. Fights 30+ metres up on "Supercool" (8a+) and other such giant routes that call Gordale home.
Today I was keen to give this mega monolithic route a good go. I had a funny idea that I could give "Supercool" a good onsight burn, then hopefully do it second go, then try "Huecool" (8b) and hopefully do that second go too :P That would be a good day! Things never go quite as planned and if they had then I think I would probably be a little upset as I wouldn't have a totally awesome 8b to go back and try.
My onsight attempt on "Supercool" was really good! I made it fairly high into the route making it through the first crux and failing tickling the good hold on the second :( I felt it was not so bad as a second go would surely be on after working the moves a bit more. Realistically, I should have done this second go... I did all the cruxes and I was high up in the final few metres when I tickled a crimp a little lower than I had expected to get it which caused my nail to ping of the hold causing a sudden lapse of balance and sent me flying off the route. A wee bit angry with my stupid error, I got my "stuff" together and despatched 3rd try :D
I then quickly equipped "Huecool" (8b) knowing well that we hadn't much time left before we would head back home. "Huecool" was definitely a step up from "Supercool". I thought it odd though that the rock was very snappy, I figured this being a classic 8b with relatively a lot of traffic that the rock might have been a bit stronger... I quickly found out that this wasn't the case. I didn't get a good chance at working the crux properly but it felt pretty standard for an 8b crux (if a little bit tenuous) and I can't wait to get back there to finish it off!
Nat had a really good day at Gordale starting off with a mega flash burn on "Supercool" followed by an equally impressive second go attempt that saw her reaching the very final crux move (which she will need to figure out new beta for because it is obviously too spanned for her using my beta). After that she finished the day off onsighting the very awesome looking 7b+ "Revival" which she positively breezed up not accounting for the 100mph winds that day :P
Will also had a good day making a great attempt at "Revival" falling on the final crux section. Other friends of ours at the crag today Chris and James spent their time working the beastly looking 7b "Last Dog". By the end of the day Chris got to add this to his ever increasing tick list of 7b redpoints.
Conclusion
Not a bad wee trip to Yorkshire. Our tick lists were healthy, we had lots of fun and we got some mighty fine pictures and films taken. Thanks to Will Caroll, Jen Randall, Dom Bush and Catherine Speakman for taking some amazing photos and film during the trip :D
And Special thanks to Catherine for standing on the edge of Gordale to get the shots - thats what I call going beyond the call of duty!
Tonight more good news arrived as I received an invite to join the GB Bouldering Team via email - an offer I am very excited about! After my 4th place in the BBC's I am psyched to improve on this and to experience the international bouldering comps. Through following my bouldering-orientated training program, I am really starting to see the benefits of having extra strength both on the boulder wall and on routes - indoors and out.
Another exciting development is my offer of sponsorship from Blurr - the American climbing clothing brand just starting to branch out into the UK. I have chosen my first 15 items for next season (I was tearing my hair out trying to decide on clothes and colours! :P ) and can't wait for the gear to arrive.
Today I helped out a little with Robbie and Ross's MCofS coaching session at Malham with young Angus Davidson and William Bosi - both Ratho climbers and GB junior team members. They had an awesome time, both sending "Something Stupid" 7b 2nd go and William redpointing "Space Race" 7b+ 2nd go! Tomorrow we are returning early to the crag to get back on projects and get some sends in before heading home....FINALLY! :P
We have had a great trip so far, let's see what tomorrow brings...
"Free and even easier" (7a+)
"Bongo Fury" (7b)
"Something Stupid" (7b)
"Space Race" (7b+)
Untitled from Robbie Phillips on Vimeo.
ROBZ OUT
We have now finished our Yorkshire Sport Climbing weekends, which went really well. Our last group included Nina, Stewart and Andrew - Ratho regulars who all had varied experience on rock before coming to Yorkshire. Stewart (Andrew's Dad) was a keen trad climber in his youth and was looking for some hints and tips on getting back into the sport climbing game on rock. Andrew (18) had primarily been trad climbing before coming on the trip, and hadn't pushed his sport grades as much. Nina was looking for help with transferring her indoor skills onto the rock, after having only started climbing in January this year.
Our first day was spent at Robin Proctor's Scar, not too far from Malham. We started on some easier topropes to get everyone's head in the game and focus purely on movement without worrying too much about clipping/falling etc. I filmed the first climbs for comparison with their later attempts on other routes, and it was very interesting to watch how quickly Stewart and Andrew adapted to the rock, moving much smoother and quicker than when they first started warming up. Nina was having difficulty with trusting her feet and having the confidence to commit to moves, however she did fantastic for her first time on real rock and we reassured her that almost everyone has difficulty when climbing outdoors for the first time, where there are no coloured blobs to follow and many possibilities for movement! Stewart flashed a 6b+ on lead and Andrew redpointed it shortly after his first go. Work started on the project of the trip - a techy 6c+. Both tried the moves on toprope to scope out the sequences, aided by some tickmarks on the holds courtesy of Robbie!
On the second day the weather let us down at Robin Proctor's so we only had a half day there before getting rained off! We headed to Malham and the guys had a play on "Rose Coronary" 7a and Nina also had a go on toprope before settling for "Begozi and the Ledge Lizards" 6a+. Nina loved Malham and her confidence was starting to grow - her performance on these routes was much more in control than at Robin Proctor's, things were looking up for the next two days!
We decided to start off at Giggleswick Scar for a morning warm-up and to test out some of the 5's and 6's the crag had to offer. Nina flashed a 5+ on toprope, making very easy work of it, and the guys both flashed some 6a's and looked on form for getting back to work on the 6c+ at Robin Proctor's in the afternoon. It was a wild and windy day, absolutely freezing and not the best conditions for sending, but the boys did a great job - both falling near the top and giving the climb their all. Nina top-roped a 6a+ with ease and was really starting to enjoy the climbing for what it was without the fear of falling or being high up. Everyone was psyched for the next day, when the project would be going down!
We finally struck lucky with the weather and the sun came out to cheer on our rock warriors at Robin Proctor's. Andrew gave the 6c+ a great first attempt, falling off just below the chains. His Dad Stewart had a lot to live up to after that attempt, he was nervous but psyched! He cruised up the route and battled through the tricky top moves, he threw for a crimp, stepped up and was at the top! Mission complete for Stewart! Meanwhile, Nina gave the classic 6a+ of the crag "Wheel of Fire" a great attempt, getting through the crux and slipping just after halfway. Andrew was raring to go on the 6c+ again after a good rest and went through the sequence again with Robbie. He was looking smooth and composed himself before going for it at the top...an easier sequence helped him reach the top and clip the chains - another 6c+ for the team!
Not satisfied with the 6c+ ticks, Andrew decided that he wanted to try "Rose Coronary" 7a again at Malham, giving it a final burn before leaving for Scotland. Stewart decided that he was too fatigued after the 6c+ to try "Rose Coronary" after giving it a good attempt on a previous day, but Andrew was keen to get it ticked. He fell off at the chains just before it was time to leave, but he decided he wanted to give it a final go - and he did it! 6c+ and 7a in a day - a personal record for Andrew who had lead-climbed 6c before coming on the trip. In all, a very successful 4 days of climbing, all 3 climbers learned something new and accrued some useful experiences to take home with them and reflect on when next on a rock-trip.
Off for some chorizo and pasta...stay tuned for more updates from the Cove!
After warming up on "Rose Coronary" (7a), I decided that any more warming up might reduce my fingertips to bleeding stumps, so I got straight on the project. I was so psyched, despite being in the full blast of the sun I managed to work my way up straight into the bulging overhang and fell on the last move of the crux! Psyched for more, I worked the rest of the route and managed to dial the moves a bit better than previously, figuring out a cool new way of back 3 stacking the right hand flatty jug for optimum resting capabilities (sounds very technical... It's not).
In the period between my next attempt, Nat had an go on "Overnite Sensation". It was horrendously hot now and the sun was beating down causing all the tiny crimpy edges to practically sizzle with skin contact. Not only does the polish become even worse in the sun, but also thanks to Malham's gleaming White colour, all the footholds become beacons of reflection to the suns rays and blind climbers all over the crag - basically the footholds are impossible to see! Nat got on with it anyway and did a bit more work on the upper section of the route, practicing the moves and gaining valuable sending knowledge.
I decided climbing in the sun today wasn't as good an idea as previously thought and so I opted out of trying my route until a little later in the day. It wasn't so bad as we were visited now by Adam Jeewooth and friends. It was cool to hang with them at the crag for the day, I learned a few bits and bobs from Adam (namely that he didn't bother with my poncy drop knee after the crux and instead just threw for the slopey crimp, not much help to me and my weak fingers) on "Unjustified" as he had climbed it the year before. He apparently also campussed the crux of "Predator" because his feet couldnt reach the footholds... BEAST!!!
When the sun passed over Malham, I got off my butt and went for my third attempt on the project. It's amazing what a bit of shade can do, the 7b "Something Stupid" (start of "Unjustified") didn't feel nearly as hard as it did earlier! I managed to get all the way up to the crux, I was a little nervous heading into it and was feeling the dampness of the undercuts (they seem to maintain a horrible goopyness within them). Before I knew it I was past the crux and dropping my knee about to pop into the slopey crimp! Unfortunately my foot blew of the foothold as i slapped for the crimp and I was off... Still I was well chuffed that I managed to get that far. After a brief rest, I got back on the rope and linked it straight to the top... I'm going to hope for a bit of cloud cover tomorrow and hopefully some skin growth overnight, perhaps I can sneak a cheeky 8b+ in before Verdon : P
After my best attempt yet, Nat obviously inspired (joke) blasted through the crux of her project and got a new highpoint, only slipping after resting at the halfway point. Both of us are psyched for what tomorrow may bring. On the walk out of Malham tonight we were stunned to see a saltire shaped cloud in the sky, perhaps this is a sign?
"Overnite Sensation" (8a+) - Robbie Phillips from Robbie Phillips on Vimeo.
27/08/11
So we haven't managed to get to Malham since the start of our latest coaching group. We have been catering to the climbing demands of our new team of psyched up climbers, Stewart, Andrew and Nina. For the last couple of days we've been hitting Robin Proctors Scar, a crag favourite of ours as it's scenic, tends to stay dry and has a good selection of quality routes in the f5-6c region.
We have seen some brilliant climbing done by thoses three. Stewart managed his first 6b+ onsight (lead), Andrew did the same 6b+ 2nd go and Nina has been making brilliant progress trying to overcome her fears. It's been certainly challenging work with Nina, as she has a real phobia of the climbing at Robin Proctors. The crag isn't very hard in difficulty but it tends to be committing at places with very exposed sections of wall. Amazingly, Nina found climbing at Malham Cove way more pleasant and had no worries here with the exposed nature of the climbs. Perhaps because it feels more like a climbing wall? Tomorrow we are going to head to Giggleswick in the morning to get a bit more mileage before heading back to Robin's. Andrew and Stewart have a 6c+ project on the go whilst Nina has to overcome her fears on the dreaded exposed 6a! We also have to make a trip back to Malham at some point as Andrew and Stewart have made excellent progress on "Rose Coronary" (7a) and are determined to finish it!
Today was a good day for me and Nat. At the end of the coaching day, despite being incredibly nackered, I thought I might as well have a blast on "Unjustified" (8b+) since the shade has come in. Nat had a blast on "Zoolook" (8a) just before and got really high up and almost through the final crux, hopefully this shouldn't take her too much more to get ticked. I had one attempt on "Unjustified" got into the crux but my foot slipped just as I was moving through the bulge. To my horror, I had smudged a massive bit of slime over the foothold (I must have kicked some off the wet streak) and this caused my foot to slip off. A bit pissed off since I was feeling so good, I decided to have a rest and try again after cleaning the foothold. I spoke to the coaching group about the pressure of Redpointing, this helped me to free things up in my mind. I think I have been getting a little too pressured with this route since I got through the crux on my third go. Ever since them I've been feeling the pressure, especially when I did the route from the end of the 7b to the top. Talking to everyone about it really helped me realise that I was taking the route too seriously and relieved a lot of the pressure. On my last attempt of the day (9th overall), just as the very last glimpses of light were leaving the crag, I went for it. The 7b section went smoothly, I got into the roof, had a quick shake out on the undercuts and breezed through the crux. I managed to shake out a little on every move, every hold after the crux i was solid and didn't feel at all like I was pushing it too much. The last hard move to the two mini jugs (rest point before the last clip to the chain) was a but of a lock, but i felt steady up to reaching it, a nice feeling when climbing on 8b+/c ground. I got full recovery at the rest and went straight to the top!
I think this is one of my biggest accomplishments to date. Although it didn't take too much time, I did feel the stress of Redpointing. This was mainly due to conditions being available only at the very last hours of the day and me being the impatient guy that I am, can never be bothered waiting, always seeming to get on it when it's in the sun, ruining my skin and then sacking it off until another day, hoping for cloud cover (that never comes unless we are at another crag coaching).
The route didn't feel anywhere near as hard as "Dures Limites" (8c), a route I was close to in Ceuse. This was at least a grade easier, but I think "Dures Limites" is considered a hard 8c so that would make sense. I reckon "Unjustified" is 8b+ and probably steady at the grade. Definitely harder than other 8b's at Malham, but I've done 8b's in Europe that I thought weren't too far off the mark. Despite the grade debate, an amazing route, amazing line and I'm psyched to have done it! Thanks to Nat for holding the rope and apologies to those that heard my profanities... Namely Toby : )
Also, big up to rudeboi Ed Hamer, 2nd in the World!!!
ROBZ OUT
My project "Overnite Sensation" 8a+ was the first to come into the shade out of our routes, so I looked at my little drawing on the cereal box cardboard - complete with footholds, clips and little memory-jogging notes such as "camp crimp!" (only Robbie and Will would understand :P ) - and compared my sketch to the route. I had remembered it perfectly and had what I thought was a perfect sequence. I tied in and stepped up to the tricky boulder problem at the start. I placed my feet on the tiny polished crozzles and hoped that they would stick, I reached the last hold of the boulder crux just after the first clip and jumped up to a good sloper and gaston edge. I clipped and breathed and continued. I tried to rest in a position which Robbie had used when he climbed the route, but it wasn't as comfortable as I found it to be when working the route. I pushed on and fell after my foot slipped going for a good side-pull crimp halfway up - it was the same as my last highpoint. I was frustrated to get to the same place again but equally pretty happy that I had made it through the boulder again at the start. I re-worked the big move and found a much easier way of throwing for it without using a polished foothold! After falling I did the route to the top in one push so was satisfied to have completed it in two halves - next go I would have the ultimate sequence and really wanted to get it done!
Robbie was still waiting for the shade to come in on "Unjustified", so I decided to have another go. I pulled on and found that I was too slow in moving my feet around, getting a bit confused with the footholds. I was annoyed that I had managed to get through this section twice before fairly easily and now it felt hard again, I got a bit frustrated and tried again, but was tiring from hanging onto the tiny sharp crozzles. My skin was wearing thin and my energy was waning. I decided to leave it until after Robbie had tried his route and relax for a bit with some bran flakes and oatcakes!
"Unjustified" was now in the shade and Robbie was psyched to get on it - he had been waiting all day for this moment! He cruised up the start - a tricky 7b - and smoothly climbed through the crux before his foot slipped going for the next hold. A brilliant effort, but he was not satisfied with the sequence and re-worked a bit of it and did some cleaning of the holds on the way down.
The air was much cooler now and the herds of tourists staring up at the Cove were diminishing. I knew I just had to relax and not get too pent up about doing the route, I needed to enjoy it. Adam Jeewooth and his Uncle Carl (and dog Treacle) had been following my attempts on the route with enthusiasm, and as I tied in Carl said "This go Nat?" "Yeah I hope so!" I replied. I took a deep breath and began to climb. I felt very calm and the boulder problem went much easier than before. I shook out by the second clip and tried to keep up my breathing - the holds get bigger as you go higher on this route, but at the same time the distance between them starts to increase! I got to my previous highpoint and used the new foot position, which sent me flying directly to the crimp. I was relieved, surprised and nervous all at the same time. Now I had to do the rest! One big move to a flat, open pinch and then into two undercut sidepulls for a quick rest.The next move from an undercut and gaston to a good tufa was one of the biggest moves on the route for me - feet high, I lunged for it and caught it. Then into a poor block undercut (at this point I actually spotted a small insect on the hold, and rather than squash it by grabbing onto the hold, I opted instead to politely poke it out of the way!) and into the top of the tufa as an undercut. I clipped and shook out straight-armed, breathed deep and smiled - the chain was in sight! A powerful cross-through to a sidepull and then a shouldery press off a gaston into the "Camp Crimp"! I turned my left hand from a gaston into an undercut and threw from a sidepull to a bad pinch just below the chains. I snatched for an intermediate sidepull with my left to balance myself and move my right foot up and flagged really deep...catching the final crimp before rocking over and clipping the chain!
I was so shocked that I had managed to complete it - even though I had climbed the route in two halves before, I thought it would take a lot to keep going through the final hard moves without falling. I was completely out of breath at the top and struggled to take the clips out! Robbie, Adam, Carl and some other climbers at the crag were all cheering as I topped out - I was grateful for their support, I think it definitely helped to bring out the aggression I needed to keep fighting!
After my ascent Robbie was unsure as to whether he should have another go on "Unjustified". He decided he might as well seeing as the next day would be a rest day. He had another good attempt but felt tired and instead worked on finding some sneaky rests! Judging from today I reckon he is certainly not far at all from ticking this route, and it will be an awesome achievement to climb such a route at Malham.
I am not sure what to do next. I think I will have a day of mileage tomorrow, onsighting some easier routes and maybe getting on "Zoolook" 8a or "Predator" 8b. At the moment we are in the pub (again!) waiting for a meeting with someone about something exciting...
Natalie