"Project Fear" - 2nd Ascent!

Inspiration

The Dolomites is without a doubt one of the most beautiful mountain landscapes I have ever visited. The whole of the Tyrol and more specifically, South Tyrol region will always have a place in my heart… I love it here so much! The mountains, culture and climbing combined make for one of the most enthralling locations I have had the pleasure to visit during my time as a climber.Blast from the past - last year on "Bellavista"

Visiting the Dolomites last year was a huge eye opener for me, it challenged my view of climbing and what I really love about the sport. Since climbing here last year, my directions have changed so much and I am having more fun than ever as a result!

Last year I was lucky enough to be here when Dave Macleod first started work on “Project Fear”. On my first day at the Tre Cime, I walked around and saw him dangling up high in the roof, working his way through the immense overhangs, scoping out the direction to which his variation on the wall would take. The weather was terrible that year but despite this both Dave and I managed our respective projects, “Bellavista” for me and “Project Fear” for him.The Mountains at Work

Project Fear

This year I planned to make a return to the Tre Cime, inspired by the walls and the area and of course “Project Fear”. I must admit, I knew very little about the climb… I am very bad at studying and about the only preparation I did before going to try the route was to check how hard each pitch was on Dave’s blog during the walk in! Willis couldn’t even believe I had never seen the video for “Project Fear” either… I still haven’t!

On our approach we knew that the route started up the “Baur Aid route”, but I had no idea where this was… I took a guess at a random line of pegs on the wall that seemed like it worked it’s way towards the roof and went for that… We were lucky on this occasion and picked the right line.Willis after he took a whipper on the 8a+ pitch

When we reached the roofs, Dave’s new route branched out right from the “Baur” taking in two new pitches of climbing before joining with Alex Huber’s 8c pitch on “Panorama”. I was a little nervous approaching the 8a+ pitch as I had just come from the Ratikon where 8a+ is desperate, but actually the style really suited me well. There were lots of options for feet and hands (if they didn’t break off) and I was actually at the last piece of protection on the onsight when a handhold broke as I was shaking out. I was very surprised at how steady the climbing actually was on this pitch – probably because I’d just come from the Ratikon where 8a+ feels more like 8c+ on your first attempt!Getting bomber gear like this is real motivation NOT to fall off!

Willis and I then reached the famous 8c pitch from “Panorama”, the Alex Huber classic. I had one go to work out the moves and was blown away that it didn’t feel too hard. 8c usually feels a lot harder… but this was really steady. We came back for a work session the next day and on my first go, I redpointed the pitch! I was in a state of excitement from the knowledge that I could potentially free the whole route, but also in awe from the position I was in, hanging in a roof hundreds of feet above the ground and the incredible exposure that you only get from walls like this.

Willis and I were excited beyond belief about doing this now, so we opted for a rest day to give us recovery from our first 2 days in the Dolomites…Looking scared is a common occurrence on these walls...

The Ascent

The night before our first redpoint attempt, a freak thunderstorm hit. I heard the rain battering down hard as I cowered in my van, it sounded awful from inside! Then the thunder and lightning came… all I could think about was how I wish I could have gone for an attempt on the second day!

We awoke at 5am; the rain had ceased but there was dampness in the air and on the walls. Willis wasn’t sure about an attempt that day but I had my heart set already… I had dealt with this last year on my “Bellavista” redpoint and I would do it again on “Project Fear”....but then so is looking AWESOME!!! :P

We started climbing at 6am, the first 100m of relatively easy wall climbing up to 7b+ went down fast! Then the 8a+ pitch came… I was a little interested in how it would feel in damper conditons, but I needn’t have worried; I climbed the 30m pitch in about 10 minutes and before long, Willis was at the belay of the 8c pitch with me.

I wasn’t nervous at all… I have been climbing 10 years now and in that time have been put under pressure enough already to know that when it comes down to the crunch, there’s only one thing you need to do, and that’s climb! Climb for you and you alone, give it your all, and if that’s not enough, then bloody try harder next time!

Representing the motherland on the 8c pitchI set off into the roof; the holds were greasy and damp, but that was to be expected. The first big move into the crux section I grabbed a positive jug and it was completely soaking wet, a dribble of water ran down my arm… I shook out on the jug knowing full well that it wasn’t doing anything to dry my hands, but it would at least give me a percentage back for the oncoming crux.

I powered through the following moves, one of those awkward sections of climbing when your pulling over the lip of a roof and there is no grace in it whatsoever, but you know that groveling is the only way through it! Through one roof and still another to go, I found a knee-bar and recovered for the final crux, a pocket that was right now full of water! I reached for it and felt it pop as the pressure created by my middle and index finger caused the water inside to explode over my hand… I retreated back into my awkward little shelter under the roof, chalking up again and building courage to just deal with the conditions no matter what! Once again I reached for the pocket, dug deep and pulled the lip of the roof throwing over for a secondary pocket and then finally a thank god jug! Feet off is an important photo to get for any big ascent!

I scrambled up to the ledge where the belay was, made myself safe and screamed so that all the Dolomites could hear me! Much like last year, an echo from the valley returned my call of excitement and relief – a mixture of climbers and on-looking tourists.

Willis followed, jumaring his way to meet me and celebrate. We still had a long way to go but not even another freak thunderstorm could stop me from getting to the summit this time! The climbs that followed were a breeze in comparison to the first half of the route but far less equipped; in a lot of circumstances falls just aren’t optional!

We summited Cima Ovest relatively early at 6pm and were down on the ground by 9pm, both of us exhausted yet still on a high after what we had just done.Happy to be at the top... we won't be in 5 minutes when we realise how difficult it is to get back down!

Experiences in the Mountains

To climb a wall like this in the mountains is a privilege few on this earth get to experience… I love challenge and adventure; so doing these big walls and multi-pitches is the perfect way for me to be at one with myself. I never feel better than when I am up on the wall, leading a hard pitch, feeling the exposure and dealing with the technicalities of the climb… it is my ecstasy in life and I am addicted! 

“Project Fear” was a wonderful direct link into one of the most classic alpine rock climbs on earth, “Panorama”. Although it is not a “new” route as it includes only two new pitches; it is a completely obvious direction to take and I am surprised nobody thought of it sooner! Respect to Dave Macleod for seeing the link and for opening the line – I am inspired by this wall and the self exploration climbing it can give you; I am now inspired to seek my own adventures in the mountains as well as following in others footsteps…