Still an "Unfinished Symphany"...

“Unfinished Symphany”

There’s something special about making an ascent of a climb that's  only had a few ascents… I guess it’s like being one of a select group; it makes you feel like “The Big Man”! Sounds like such a ridiculous reason to do anything; but saying that, I think grades are really silly too and a lot of people climb routes for "grades" more than any other reason!

One of the main factors that attracted me to try “Unfinished Symphany” was that I could get a 2^nd ascent. I just like the sound of that… it’s not a first ascent, but it still means a hell of a lot for both the 2^nd ascensionist and more importantly the 1^st ascenisionist! You’re the guy who confirms the difficulty, which is always a point of deep intrigue amongst climbers.

After climbing “Unfinished Symphany”, I was flurried with questions regarding the grade, which only goes to prove how much grades seem to matter to climbers nowadays.

Another main factor to try “Unfinished” was that it was Alan Cassidy’s own addition to Scottish climbing. For as long as I’ve been climbing, Alan has stood out as being one of the top Scottish climbers on the scene, so it’s only natural that I’d be eager to redpoint a “Cassidy Classic”.

My thoughts on the build up to trying “Unfinished” were more along the lines of:

I do tend to have pre-conceived ideas about climbs... For example, I tend to be very wary of Scottish Sport Climbs, thinking they must be more difficult than Spanish or French sport climbs at the same grade. Also, I am much more accustomed to limestone, so I was a bit wary that the basalt could cause more problems.

We as humans do tend to create pre-conceived ideas fairly early on when we challenge ourselves. Often this is unnecessary, but sometimes it's good as it prepares us for any eventuality. However it's not great to be to blasé about things, but equally so I think it's important to be confident in your approach. 

Alan on the lovely sloper rest :D Photo by Adam Lincoln (Stolen for now but I'm sure he won't mind) ;)

Over many years climbing, I feel I have developed quite a confident approach to climbing. When I was younger, I went through a long period of high anxiety around challenging climbing situations. I built up way too much pressure and backed myself into impossible situations in which I felt the only way out was success! I have learned my lessons and now I feel I have a much more secure and healthier grasp on the reality of "challenge" i.e. sometimes you win, sometimes you lose; the times you fall are also the times you learn... so learn to live with it!

Back to "Unfinished Symphany" - it was certainly very bouldery, there was next to no footholds throughout the crux and it was all slippy basalt edges and pinches (standard Dumby really).

For me the climb could be broken down like this:

The route took me 2 days in total (about 5 times on the wall, 2 redpoint burns from the ground). The first time I tried to go straight through from the ground I fell off the 2^nd last boulder leaving the crack. Unfortunately throughout my experience of the route, the crack was always sodden wet. The 2^nd day was better as I brought some cams to place in the crack so I could dry it easier.

On my final redpoint attempt, I was terrified coming out of the crack with wet hands! I knew the upper crux was powerful and core intensive with very bad slippy feet. I really had to dig deep for this one! 

I battled through the traverse section and got a quick shake on the uncomfortably positioned sloping rail... here I could collect a few thoughts before questing upwards towards the belay. A few stray thoughts of negativity flew in... things like "your feet might be wet" and "you have to get these holds perfect or you won't hang them"... But luckily I stamped them out quickly enough!

I took one final shake and went all out for the final crux! Each move passed and I was thanking my lucky stars that my core was working well and my feet weren't sliding off the slick basalt smears... and then BOOM! I clipped the chains :D That was a good feeling!

The Grade

As much as I don’t really understand climbing grades on the whole, I’d say that for me I would confirm Alan’s estimation of 8b+ to be fair. Certainly the difficulty increases the shorter you get so it might end up being even a little bit on the high end if your particularly short of stature. This just goes to prove how utterly nonsensical numbers in climbing are :P

Well done Alan on a fab new addition to Scottish sport climbing, I am honoured to have made the 2^nd ascent of such a great climb and like you, I’m now looking forward to the 3^rd ascent! :D