Rain, rock and Raindogs!
Hey everyone,
Sorry for the lack of blogging since Ceuse, so much has been happening and I’ve not had the time to put it down on paper (or on a computer screen :p) We are currently in the pub which has become our “local” over the last while!
We have been in Yorkshire for a week and a half now and have already undertaken our first successful coaching group as part of our 3 “Yorkshire sport climbing weekends”. We have also managed to get a bit of climbing for ourselves in on the side in between coaching sessions and the psyche is now high for our projects at Malham Cove.
Robbie and I arrived in Yorkshire to be greeted by the worst rain I have ever experienced! Torrential downpours were not ideal for setting up and living in a tent for 3 weeks, but we were determined not to let the weather get in the way of our work and climbing. Positive thought and “sundances” were brought on in order to dissuade the rain from destroying moral and dampening our hopes of having a good time. Luckily, we somehow escaped the worst of the weather and managed to find some dry rock…
Our first group consisted of Ben from London and Pete from Edinburgh. Both guys went from strength to strength over the 4 days - overcoming fear and doubt and generally being enthusiastic and good fun to work with. Ben managed to lead his first 6c+ and toprope his first 7a outdoors, and Pete successfully lead his first 6b+ outside! Our crags of choice were Robin Proctor’s Scar and Trow gill for the first three days, and Malham Cove on the fourth. Tired but enlightened by their experience, Ben and Pete learned a lot from focussing on redpoint tactics and movement skills on the rock - I am sure both will continue to push their grades with their newfound confidence.
In the few days we had before our first coaching group, I had been working on building up some mileage on the classic 7a’s and 7b’s at Malham. I did some classics such as “Consenting Adults” 7a and “Rose Coronary” 7a, and onsighted a 7b called “Something Stupid”. My sights were set on “Raindogs” 8a, a route which has been on my ticklist since I was very young indeed! I had tried the route two years ago but only made it up to the second clip, finding the moves very powerful and hard, perhaps due to climbing in the baking sun! This time I went for a retro-flash attempt and made it halfway before falling. I worked the moves to the top and felt confident that I had a good sequence, the hard part would be linking these together! My first red point (second attempt) went pretty well, I made it to the second-last clip, powering out at an undercut move which takes you onto the final crimpy section below the chains. I was psyched and thought it could go potentially on my third try, I had new beta which would make that move easier and didn’t feel very pumped up until that point.
My next go I got to the last hold before the chains, finding it awkward and strenuous to move my feet up after having climbed the rest of the route and feeling slightly jaded! I reworked the sequence ready for the next day’s attempt. I knew I had a perfect sequence (or did I?) and went for it the next morning. I had the last hold and eyed up the chains, pulling as hard as I could…two fingers wrapped around the screwgate…before slipping out promptly. I was very frustrated as I had felt composed up until that move, I think I hesitated a little too much rather than just going for it! The next two attempts were a similar story, perhaps getting even closer to grabbing the screwgate! I also found a hold which made the last move feel slightly less dynamic, so I was happy to have picked up on that after falling off in frustration and refusing to go back on the wall! I decided to leave it for a day and when I next got on the route, I knew I had no excuse not to be able to do it- I had a perfected sequence and the only thing that could potentially hold me back was doubt, or a polish-induced foot-slip! I felt reasonably relaxed as I began to climb the first section, and chilled out at the first and only rest. I continued, climbing quickly in order to preserve energy and keep up a rhythm. Nearing the chains I felt much more in control and even the holds seemed more welcoming than normal. I used the tiny intermediate and balanced myself to go for the chain…and latched it! I had climbed my first 8a in Britain and my 6th so far this year.
After my success on Raindogs, I decided to work the moves on Predator 8b. I really enjoyed the first section, thinking it was about 7b/+ and tried the crux section a few times, finding the holds fairly positive but the feet very perplexing! Eventually my skin was wearing thin so I decided to come down and try again another time. I had a second attempt and made it up to the crux without falling, trying the moves numerous times to work out the best sequence. I think the route will take a good few attempts and more working but I am psyched to return to it in the next few sessions! I am currently working on “Overnite Sensation” 8a+, a short and powerful route with a cruxy boulder start. I really like the climbing despite the first sharp holds which are very painful to hold and throw for! Tomorrow I really want to try and get it ticked, it will take lots of determination and aggression but I think I am getting into the zone of Malham’s tricky style - powerful techy moves with bad footholds and lots of core strength!
Robbie has also had a very successful first few sessions, ticking “Overnite sensation” 8a+, “Predator” 8b and “Austrian Oak” 8b, each within four tries! He has now set his sights on “Unjustified” 8b+/c and looks set to keep on crushing. He has put together a great video of me on “Raindogs” and is currently sat beside me making one of him on “Overnite”…watch this space!
Today we said goodbye to our friend, photographer and chauffeur (:p) Will Carroll, who has been a fantastic help with setting up ropes and taking amazing photos as always! We already miss him and have stockpiled on food until we can catch a lift off someone else into Settle…
With four more days of climbing until our next coaching session, keep reading for more updates from the Cove!
[...] was well spent. Ben pushed his redpoint grade to 6c+, Robbie ticked off a couple of Malham 8bs, Nat ticked the classic of the crag at Malham. I’ve canned a bit of all of that action. As for my [...]