Natalie Berry's Blog

The last few days have been very productive and exciting for me, as we come to the end of our trip to Yorkshire. Yesterday I ticked my project “Zoolook” 8a (just after Robbie - team ascent!) - a route which had taken a fair bit of patience to learn the sequence and cope with polished footholds! The route finally went down on our 3rd attempt of the day - something just seemed “right” and both of us focussed on doing the move rather than worrying about our feet slipping!

Straight after ticking “Zoolook”, Robbie put the clips in “GBH” 8a+ and worked out the moves. Today I had a go working out the moves then went for a redpoint burn - getting up to the crux and coming off on a powerful undercut move (of which there are many!) Robbie ticked the route 3rd go - an awesome effort! I am hoping to feel refreshed tomorrow (our last day of climbing ahhh!) and get it done. It really would be the icing on the cake if I manage to do it, hopefully the fact that we will have limited time before getting the train home will be an incentive to fight for it!

Tonight more good news arrived as I received an invite to join the GB Bouldering Team via email - an offer I am very excited about! After my 4th place in the BBC’s I am psyched to improve on this and to experience the international bouldering comps. Through following my bouldering-orientated training program, I am really starting to see the benefits of having extra strength both on the boulder wall and on routes - indoors and out.

Another exciting development is my offer of sponsorship from Blurr - the American climbing clothing brand just starting to branch out into the UK. I have chosen my first 15 items for next season (I was tearing my hair out trying to decide on clothes and colours! ) and can’t wait for the gear to arrive.

Today I helped out a little with Robbie and Ross’s MCofS coaching session at Malham with young Angus Davidson and William Bosi - both Ratho climbers and GB junior team members. They had an awesome time, both sending “Something Stupid” 7b 2nd go and William redpointing “Space Race” 7b+ 2nd go! Tomorrow we are returning early to the crag to get back on projects and get some sends in before heading home….FINALLY! :P

We have had a great trip so far, let’s see what tomorrow brings…

Hey guys! We are nearing the end of our 4 week stint in Yorkshire Pudding land. We are still going strong on porridge, oatcakes, houmous, and flapjacks (we will turn into oats soon enough if we don’t stop eating foods consisting of them!) and our nighttime dinners of pasta, veg and chorizo sausage! The weather is steady and not as unpredictable as the first three weeks, but we are definitely feeling a bit jaded after working so hard in our coaching sessions and redpointing our routes at the Cove. Reading Harry Potter at the top of Malham Cove (where some scenes of the last film were shot) in the evening has become a habit of ours and is a good way to relieve redpoint stress!

I have been getting frustratingly close to doing “Zoolook” 8a - each time I go up I learn something new about the sequence, and tomorrow I hope to get it done if I manage to keep my head together! Last attempt went really well, I got through the crux and felt calm as I reached up for a good sidepull. I then had a total mind-blank with my foot sequence and dithered too much, going for a tricky undercut pocket with my left-hand and falling due to not catching it properly. Robbie is also planning an attack on this route as well as “The Groove” 8a+. Conditions have been a bit muggy over the last few days and today we are taking a well-earned rest.

We have now finished our Yorkshire Sport Climbing weekends, which went really well. Our last group included Nina, Stewart and Andrew - Ratho regulars who all had varied experience on rock before coming to Yorkshire. Stewart (Andrew’s Dad) was a keen trad climber in his youth and was looking for some hints and tips on getting back into the sport climbing game on rock. Andrew (18) had primarily been trad climbing before coming on the trip, and hadn’t pushed his sport grades as much. Nina was looking for help with transferring her indoor skills onto the rock, after having only started climbing in January this year.

Our first day was spent at Robin Proctor’s Scar, not too far from Malham. We started on some easier topropes to get everyone’s head in the game and focus purely on movement without worrying too much about clipping/falling etc. I filmed the first climbs for comparison with their later attempts on other routes, and it was very interesting to watch how quickly Stewart and Andrew adapted to the rock, moving much smoother and quicker than when they first started warming up. Nina was having difficulty with trusting her feet and having the confidence to commit to moves, however she did fantastic for her first time on real rock and we reassured her that almost everyone has difficulty when climbing outdoors for the first time, where there are no coloured blobs to follow and many possibilities for movement! Stewart flashed a 6b+ on lead and Andrew redpointed it shortly after his first go. Work started on the project of the trip - a techy 6c+. Both tried the moves on toprope to scope out the sequences, aided by some tickmarks on the holds courtesy of Robbie!

On the second day the weather let us down at Robin Proctor’s so we only had a half day there before getting rained off! We headed to Malham and the guys had a play on “Rose Coronary” 7a and Nina also had a go on toprope before settling for “Begozi and the Ledge Lizards” 6a+. Nina loved Malham and her confidence was starting to grow - her performance on these routes was much more in control than at Robin Proctor’s, things were looking up for the next two days!

We decided to start off at Giggleswick Scar for a morning warm-up and to test out some of the 5′s and 6′s the crag had to offer. Nina flashed a 5+ on toprope, making very easy work of it, and the guys both flashed some 6a’s and looked on form for getting back to work on the 6c+ at Robin Proctor’s in the afternoon. It was a wild and windy day, absolutely freezing and not the best conditions for sending, but the boys did a great job - both falling near the top and giving the climb their all. Nina top-roped a 6a+ with ease and was really starting to enjoy the climbing for what it was without the fear of falling or being high up. Everyone was psyched for the next day, when the project would be going down!

We finally struck lucky with the weather and the sun came out to cheer on our rock warriors at Robin Proctor’s. Andrew gave the 6c+ a great first attempt, falling off just below the chains. His Dad Stewart had a lot to live up to after that attempt, he was nervous but psyched! He cruised up the route and battled through the tricky top moves, he threw for a crimp, stepped up and was at the top! Mission complete for Stewart! Meanwhile, Nina gave the classic 6a+ of the crag “Wheel of Fire” a great attempt, getting through the crux and slipping just after halfway. Andrew was raring to go on the 6c+ again after a good rest and went through the sequence again with Robbie. He was looking smooth and composed himself before going for it at the top…an easier sequence helped him reach the top and clip the chains - another 6c+ for the team!

Not satisfied with the 6c+ ticks, Andrew decided that he wanted to try “Rose Coronary” 7a again at Malham, giving it a final burn before leaving for Scotland. Stewart decided that he was too fatigued after the 6c+ to try “Rose Coronary” after giving it a good attempt on a previous day, but Andrew was keen to get it ticked. He fell off at the chains just before it was time to leave, but he decided he wanted to give it a final go - and he did it! 6c+ and 7a in a day - a personal record for Andrew who had lead-climbed 6c before coming on the trip. In all, a very successful 4 days of climbing, all 3 climbers learned something new and accrued some useful experiences to take home with them and reflect on when next on a rock-trip.

Off for some chorizo and pasta…stay tuned for more updates from the Cove!

Yesterday was a very long and tiring day. We got up reasonably early and sat outside the tent wondering what to do - if it was going to be too hot and sunny to climb, we didn’t want to bother going to the crag and would rest instead. It was fairly overcast and cooler than the day before, so we decided to head up to the Cove a bit later on with our objectives in mind - to crush our projects! We lazed around reading and drawing and watching the wasps devour a massive blob of honey which we had put on a spoon to distract them from trying to get at our breakfast. I also drew out a route map of “Overnite Sensation” on the back of some cardboard from the cereal box! (I was very bored!)

Upon arriving at the crag, our friends informed us that conditions were rubbish - greasy holds and muggy heat! I’ve never liked letting conditions obstruct my desire to climb a route - I sometimes think that worrying too much about whether holds are damp or greasy prevents you from really going for things. We warmed up on a 7a+ and top-roped it again to get a bit more of a pump on. As the sun broke through the clouds in the early afternoon, we took it easy and relaxed on the Catwalk for an hour or two.

My project “Overnite Sensation” 8a+ was the first to come into the shade out of our routes, so I looked at my little drawing on the cereal box cardboard - complete with footholds, clips and little memory-jogging notes such as “camp crimp!” (only Robbie and Will would understand ) - and compared my sketch to the route. I had remembered it perfectly and had what I thought was a perfect sequence. I tied in and stepped up to the tricky boulder problem at the start. I placed my feet on the tiny polished crozzles and hoped that they would stick, I reached the last hold of the boulder crux just after the first clip and jumped up to a good sloper and gaston edge. I clipped and breathed and continued. I tried to rest in a position which Robbie had used when he climbed the route, but it wasn’t as comfortable as I found it to be when working the route. I pushed on and fell after my foot slipped going for a good side-pull crimp halfway up - it was the same as my last highpoint. I was frustrated to get to the same place again but equally pretty happy that I had made it through the boulder again at the start. I re-worked the big move and found a much easier way of throwing for it without using a polished foothold! After falling I did the route to the top in one push so was satisfied to have completed it in two halves - next go I would have the ultimate sequence and really wanted to get it done!

Robbie was still waiting for the shade to come in on “Unjustified”, so I decided to have another go. I pulled on and found that I was too slow in moving my feet around, getting a bit confused with the footholds. I was annoyed that I had managed to get through this section twice before fairly easily and now it felt hard again, I got a bit frustrated and tried again, but was tiring from hanging onto the tiny sharp crozzles. My skin was wearing thin and my energy was waning. I decided to leave it until after Robbie had tried his route and relax for a bit with some bran flakes and oatcakes!

“Unjustified” was now in the shade and Robbie was psyched to get on it - he had been waiting all day for this moment! He cruised up the start - a tricky 7b - and smoothly climbed through the crux before his foot slipped going for the next hold. A brilliant effort, but he was not satisfied with the sequence and re-worked a bit of it and did some cleaning of the holds on the way down.

The air was much cooler now and the herds of tourists staring up at the Cove were diminishing. I knew I just had to relax and not get too pent up about doing the route, I needed to enjoy it. Adam Jeewooth and his Uncle Carl (and dog Treacle) had been following my attempts on the route with enthusiasm, and as I tied in Carl said “This go Nat?” “Yeah I hope so!” I replied. I took a deep breath and began to climb. I felt very calm and the boulder problem went much easier than before. I shook out by the second clip and tried to keep up my breathing - the holds get bigger as you go higher on this route, but at the same time the distance between them starts to increase! I got to my previous highpoint and used the new foot position, which sent me flying directly to the crimp. I was relieved, surprised and nervous all at the same time. Now I had to do the rest! One big move to a flat, open pinch and then into two undercut sidepulls for a quick rest.The next move from an undercut and gaston to a good tufa was one of the biggest moves on the route for me - feet high, I lunged for it and caught it. Then into a poor block undercut (at this point I actually spotted a small insect on the hold, and rather than squash it by grabbing onto the hold, I opted instead to politely poke it out of the way!) and into the top of the tufa as an undercut. I clipped and shook out straight-armed, breathed deep and smiled - the chain was in sight! A powerful cross-through to a sidepull and then a shouldery press off a gaston into the “Camp Crimp”! I turned my left hand from a gaston into an undercut and threw from a sidepull to a bad pinch just below the chains. I snatched for an intermediate sidepull with my left to balance myself and move my right foot up and flagged really deep…catching the final crimp before rocking over and clipping the chain!

I was so shocked that I had managed to complete it - even though I had climbed the route in two halves before, I thought it would take a lot to keep going through the final hard moves without falling. I was completely out of breath at the top and struggled to take the clips out! Robbie, Adam, Carl and some other climbers at the crag were all cheering as I topped out - I was grateful for their support, I think it definitely helped to bring out the aggression I needed to keep fighting!

After my ascent Robbie was unsure as to whether he should have another go on “Unjustified”. He decided he might as well seeing as the next day would be a rest day. He had another good attempt but felt tired and instead worked on finding some sneaky rests! Judging from today I reckon he is certainly not far at all from ticking this route, and it will be an awesome achievement to climb such a route at Malham.

I am not sure what to do next. I think I will have a day of mileage tomorrow, onsighting some easier routes and maybe getting on “Zoolook” 8a or “Predator” 8b. At the moment we are in the pub (again!) waiting for a meeting with someone about something exciting…

Natalie

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Hey everyone,

Sorry for the lack of blogging since Ceuse, so much has been happening and I’ve not had the time to put it down on paper (or on a computer screen :p) We are currently in the pub which has become our “local” over the last while!

We have been in Yorkshire for a week and a half now and have already undertaken our first successful coaching group as part of our 3 “Yorkshire sport climbing weekends”. We have also managed to get a bit of climbing for ourselves in on the side in between coaching sessions and the psyche is now high for our projects at Malham Cove.

Robbie and I arrived in Yorkshire to be greeted by the worst rain I have ever experienced! Torrential downpours were not ideal for setting up and living in a tent for 3 weeks, but we were determined not to let the weather get in the way of our work and climbing. Positive thought and “sundances” were brought on in order to dissuade the rain from destroying moral and dampening our hopes of having a good time. Luckily, we somehow escaped the worst of the weather and managed to find some dry rock…

Our first group consisted of Ben from London and Pete from Edinburgh. Both guys went from strength to strength over the 4 days - overcoming fear and doubt and generally being enthusiastic and good fun to work with. Ben managed to lead his first 6c+ and toprope his first 7a outdoors, and Pete successfully lead his first 6b+ outside! Our crags of choice were Robin Proctor’s Scar and Trow gill for the first three days, and Malham Cove on the fourth. Tired but enlightened by their experience, Ben and Pete learned a lot from focussing on redpoint tactics and movement skills on the rock - I am sure both will continue to push their grades with their newfound confidence.

In the few days we had before our first coaching group, I had been working on building up some mileage on the classic 7a’s and 7b’s at Malham. I did some classics such as “Consenting Adults” 7a and “Rose Coronary” 7a, and onsighted a 7b called “Something Stupid”. My sights were set on “Raindogs” 8a, a route which has been on my ticklist since I was very young indeed! I had tried the route two years ago but only made it up to the second clip, finding the moves very powerful and hard, perhaps due to climbing in the baking sun! This time I went for a retro-flash attempt and made it halfway before falling. I worked the moves to the top and felt confident that I had a good sequence, the hard part would be linking these together! My first red point (second attempt) went pretty well, I made it to the second-last clip, powering out at an undercut move which takes you onto the final crimpy section below the chains. I was psyched and thought it could go potentially on my third try, I had new beta which would make that move easier and didn’t feel very pumped up until that point.

My next go I got to the last hold before the chains, finding it awkward and strenuous to move my feet up after having climbed the rest of the route and feeling slightly jaded! I reworked the sequence ready for the next day’s attempt. I knew I had a perfect sequence (or did I?) and went for it the next morning. I had the last hold and eyed up the chains, pulling as hard as I could…two fingers wrapped around the screwgate…before slipping out promptly. I was very frustrated as I had felt composed up until that move, I think I hesitated a little too much rather than just going for it! The next two attempts were a similar story, perhaps getting even closer to grabbing the screwgate! I also found a hold which made the last move feel slightly less dynamic, so I was happy to have picked up on that after falling off in frustration and refusing to go back on the wall! I decided to leave it for a day and when I next got on the route, I knew I had no excuse not to be able to do it- I had a perfected sequence and the only thing that could potentially hold me back was doubt, or a polish-induced foot-slip! I felt reasonably relaxed as I began to climb the first section, and chilled out at the first and only rest. I continued, climbing quickly in order to preserve energy and keep up a rhythm. Nearing the chains I felt much more in control and even the holds seemed more welcoming than normal. I used the tiny intermediate and balanced myself to go for the chain…and latched it! I had climbed my first 8a in Britain and my 6th so far this year.

After my success on Raindogs, I decided to work the moves on Predator 8b. I really enjoyed the first section, thinking it was about 7b/+ and tried the crux section a few times, finding the holds fairly positive but the feet very perplexing! Eventually my skin was wearing thin so I decided to come down and try again another time. I had a second attempt and made it up to the crux without falling, trying the moves numerous times to work out the best sequence. I think the route will take a good few attempts and more working but I am psyched to return to it in the next few sessions! I am currently working on “Overnite Sensation” 8a+, a short and powerful route with a cruxy boulder start. I really like the climbing despite the first sharp holds which are very painful to hold and throw for! Tomorrow I really want to try and get it ticked, it will take lots of determination and aggression but I think I am getting into the zone of Malham’s tricky style - powerful techy moves with bad footholds and lots of core strength!

Robbie has also had a very successful first few sessions, ticking “Overnite sensation” 8a+, “Predator” 8b and “Austrian Oak” 8b, each within four tries! He has now set his sights on “Unjustified” 8b+/c and looks set to keep on crushing. He has put together a great video of me on “Raindogs” and is currently sat beside me making one of him on “Overnite”…watch this space!

Today we said goodbye to our friend, photographer and chauffeur (:p) Will Carroll, who has been a fantastic help with setting up ropes and taking amazing photos as always! We already miss him and have stockpiled on food until we can catch a lift off someone else into Settle…

With four more days of climbing until our next coaching session, keep reading for more updates from the Cove!

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I’m back in Scotland now and although it’s good to be home (especially as I am still ill!) I am missing the rock and the people we met during our trip! 5 weeks was a long time to spend in one place, and the combination of camping in a tent during cold nights and doing the epic hour-long walk-in roughly 25 times up and down certainly took its toll on us! Our last week was frustrating in that Robbie’s finger was split open on his 8b project and I fell ill with suspected food poisoning through handling raw chicken - resulting in little to no climbing in the last week
However, the trip as a whole was both enjoyable and successful - we are definitely heading back next year! It was great to hang out with our friends from the GB Climbing Team in a non-competitive environment for a change, and just relax and enjoy the climbing.
We also met loads of new and interesting people from all around the world, as well as learning about ourselves as climbers and what we need to work on for next year. In fact, Robbie and me were so psyched about our goals for next year that we listed them in a document at Lyon aiport and made a training programme in order to acheive them!

My main concern before I arrived was my finger injuries - I had two minor pulley tears (one on each ring finger) which had been holding me back both in training and performance. I had been climbing on them carefully and not following much structured training other than pure bouldering sessions. I saw gains in strength and power compared to last year, as I had never really just trained bouldering on its own before in 11 years of climbing, but still had to err on the side of caution and stop when it hurt too much - a necessary evil! :p Coping with an injury is frustrating and has an affect on the mind which can be almost as distressing as (if not more) than the physical pain in some cases. I had never really had a serious injury through climbing in 10 years before this (apart from two hernias, not necessarily due to climbing!) and always tried my best to avoid getting injured, so when the first one arrived after Ceuse last year, it was hard for me to accept. Just as this one was starting to heal up in February this year, the same injury occurred on my right hand - even more acute than the first one. I had just competed in the BBC’s and was feeling confident in my bouldering, I knew I had improved a lot and was reluctant to take it easy - I wanted to go to Spain and climb hard routes, this was the last thing I needed! In the end I had to ease off the gas and listen to my body (and Robbie!) I focussed on slopey holds and big dynamic moves between jugs, avoiding crimps and pinches or any move/hold which could hurt. I had a great trip in Spain, it was a real learning curve as I had to step back a fair bit and do lots of mileage to build confidence and movement skills on the rock. I found it harder to predict which holds and moves would be painful on the rock, and lacked aggression to really go for moves in fear of causing potentially permanent damage to my fingers. I ended up ticking my first 8a by working my way through the grades and picking an apprropriate route. I learned ways of climbing without over-straining my fingers on rock and overcame a massive hurdle in doing the 8a. I hoped I could learn from this experience and give it my best in Ceuse…

The first few days were all about mileage (and getting used to the walk-in!) - my fingers were slightly tweaky but felt different after two or three days of climbing. I have no idea how or why my fingers healed so suddenly, but I reckon a combination of hot weather, Tiger Balm and the magical rock of Ceuse had something to do with it! It is slightly creepy that my first injury appeared the day after I got home from Ceuse last year, and upon my return both disappear! Despite the lack of pain, I was sceptical and still wary of pushing myself too hard too soon. I also felt relatively unfit on the rock, which was frustrating! 8 months of no route-climbing meant I was getting pumped quick, something I hadn’t experienced since returning to climbing after my operation last February (and that was only 10 weeks off!) As a result I lacked confidence - I was strong enough to do moves but felt pumped and unnerved by big run-outs on vertical/slabby ground (for which Ceuse is notorious!) I found it hard to get psyched when all I was worrying about was falling and hurting myself - it really detracted from the climbing and irritated me. Being on a rope again high up felt really unnatural after bouldering for so long, and I seemed to have acquired some kind of injury paranoia after dealing with two of them for a year. It took about 2 weeks to be fully comfortable with falling, I overcame it by warming up on tricky 7a/+ slabs and realising that the determination I had to do the route was more than the chance I had of hurting myself by falling.

I ticked ”Petit Tom” 8a, but it had been a case of getting redpoint stress and having a lack of confidence, which made it take a lot longer to do than it should have. I was also still building up my endurance and quite often I would just pump out and fall off! The major turning point of the trip was the day that I almost did “Carte Blanche” 8a second go. I don’t really know what came over me, or at what point I changed my outlook on redpointing, but I just remember feeling really angry with myself for not going for moves previously on routes. I wanted to show what I was capable of if I put my mind to it. There was a good gathering of people at Demi-Lune, and I remember being a bit put-off by the noise and activity at the crag. In fact, I think this encouraged me more to get psyched and really go for it - it was just like in competitions where there is noise and lots of distractions, but you have to zone-in to the climb and use the atmosphere to your advantage and feel the adrenaline! This was what I’d been doing for years and it had never fazed me - for some reason I’d had difficulty transferring it onto the rock. I think I had always doubted myself when it came to outdoors, believing that I was just a competition climber and would never be able to do hard routes outdoors. I had to deal with comments along this line from very narrow-minded adults (yes, adults!) a lot when I was younger, and if there’s one thing I enjoy doing, it’s proving people wrong and surprising those who doubt my abilities in some way.

I got on the route and made it to the rest before the crux. This was it, a massive move that required full committment. I looked at the pocket and went for it - powerscreaming and latching it. The next moves also required a lot of gutsiness -I did the same and roared as I caught the next holds. I was being aggressive and it was working! I made it to near the top before falling after getting my hand sequence wrong, I was annoyed at falling but satisfied with the way I had climbed. Everyone down below was quite taken-aback by my performance, as was I! I had always been a very cautious and considerate climber in competitions and in general, but this new style of climbing seemed to work well for me outdoors. The power-screaming seemed to remind me how much I wanted the route, and prevent any insecurity or reluctance from taking hold of me.

Now more confident in my abilities, “Carte Blanche” and the next two 8a’s came quick and fast - I did the same on “Bourinator” and “Colonettes”, and climbed with sheer aggression and determination. “Colonettes” was probably the hardest route for me, moreso because I had had a nightmare on it on my first attempt! After failing on the boulder problem at the start, which has a very big move to a poor sidepull, I was slightly demotivated for trying the rest of the route - graded at 7c+ if you can’t free the start. I hadn’t climbed much on tufas before and found them quite intimidating, I didn’t like the massive runouts and found knee-barring a very alien concept, and after getting completely boxed on the tufas the top section was still quite tricky on sharp holds! This first attempt involved lots of negativity and “I can’t”s, but after doing “Carte Blanche” I was determined to get it done. I struggled to do the first section, but eventually summoned up the power to get through it and completed the route! In the space of one week I had ticked 3 8a’s in a row, a feat I never thought I could acheive when I was struggling to get to grips with 7a’s and run-outs!

It was time to work on something slightly harder - I had an attempt at “Dolce Vita” 8a+ and “Radote Jolie Pepere” 8b. Both routes felt tickable, but with the time I had left I wanted to focus on “Dolce Vita”. On my second attempt I reworked the crux, and by the third I came off halfway through the crux, but found a new foothold! It was getting late and my skin was sore. I was tired but wanted to do this route on my next go. I went for a run to warm up and got on, not feeling as comfortable as before but my determination won through - my sequence worked and I roared through the crux. Once again, mind had won over matter! Watching the footage of me climbing this route taken by Robbie really inspired me, I had never seen myself climb like that before from a distance, and looking on as a spectator gave me a different perspective on my climbing. I had surprised myself and my foot was now in the door for climbing a harder grade!

In all I realised what I am capable of if I put my mind to it - as someone once said to me, I reckon I climb about 3 grades harder in competition than I do in training - purely because of my determination to succeed and the way my mind has adapted to competitive environments. I have had to learn to be competitive with myself and the routes I try outdoors, and to believe in my abilities. I feel fitter and stronger than before I went out, and can’t wait to get back on a trip with friends and meet more new people I would like to thank everyone on the trip who gave support in some way - whether it was a quiet “Allez Nat!” or a full-on “PUSH IT OUT!” We had a great team spirit at the crag! Thanks also go to Robbie for his patience and support when I was finding my feet on the rock, and for looking after me over the last few days when I was vomiting and generally not being very pleasant to be around

Now that my fingers seem to have healed up, I am psyched to get into training for next year and all the trips I have coming up - Yorkshire, Kalymnos and Spain! My aims for the next year are to consolidate 8a/+ and climb some 8b’s, bring it on!

Two days ago I woke up, lazed around the campsite until 1pm then walked up to the crag. This was the day I wanted to tick off my 8a+ project “Dolce Vita”, and from my first try the session before I had worked out all the moves, but felt as though it would take time to knit them together. As Robbie’s finger was freshly cut from his 8b project, our German friend Marten was on hand to belay and Robbie resigned himself to taking pictures and videos (absolutely amazing ones at that!) We warmed up on a deceptive 6b and waited until it cooled down a bit - Marten taking on the 7b+ classic “Blocage Violent” and me getting psyched for “Dolce Vita”.

Ed and Sam kindly set up a static line for us and Robbie jumared up into position. It was freezing cold with a chilly wind blowing across Berlin sector - much colder than any day we had experienced in 4 weeks so far. I could remember all the moves, perhaps I was a little bit unsure of some footholds (the trickiest thing to work out on this route - the ideal foot positions!) but I was psyched to get it done. I managed the first section fairly easily and made it to the shake-out on a good jug just before the crux. The next few moves were fine, then I placed my foot high and went for the slopey pocket just before the crux and misjudged the catch, falling off in annoyance. I worked the move and the crux section and completed it to the top, stopping only for Robbie to get some footage from different angles.

I felt confident in the way that I had remembered and processed the moves, and thought that 3rd go may be a possibility. After Marten had had another attempt at “Blocage” I was fired up and ready to go. Robbie was back into position on the rope. I tied in, took a deep breath and climbed the bottom section carefully up until the rest. Everything was exactly as it was on the previous attempt, no change in sequence or foot positioning. I got to the move with the high foot and went for the pocket, this time latching it perfectly as I let out a powerscream! A bad crimp, an even worse crimp, an awkward clip and then the crux move - a massive launch to good pocket put right. I went for it but just didn’t quite catch it right and came off. I was frustrated but saw it as a chance to improve my sequence, finding a higher and better foothold to give me more power for the move.

It was getting late but I wanted another go - my skin was sore, I was getting more tired and cold but I was determined! I went for a run all the way from Berlin sector to Pont sur l’Infini and back to keep warm, chatting to people I knew along the way. They all offered me their encouragement and the adrenaline was building!

I felt slightly jaded from my previous attempts and said to myself that I had plenty of opportunity to try it again during the trip if things didn’t work out this time, which reassured me and I felt able to just enjoy climbing the route rather than pressure myself into doing it. I smoothly climbed to the jug rest. I remember my skin feeling raw and more painful than the last time, and in a way resigning myself to a possible failure at the crux again. I fought through the moves just before the launch to the pocket, placing my body in a slightly different position and nearly coming off due to not thinking properly - the fight had begun! I clipped and started positioning my feet, feeling a bit pumped and dazed, I looked up at the pocket and went for it…and to my surprise I caught it! I heard Robbie and people down below encouraging me as I roared and latched it, then brought my feet up and went again to a good pocket. The hardest part was over but the top section would still require intense concentration - techy moves on small crimps don’t leave room for complacency! I climbed every move assertively but with care - I have learnt that hesitation on technical sections can also be a downfall! The last tricky move was done and I knew in my mind (although I didn’t want to believe it too soon) that the route was “in the bag”. I clipped the chain and felt slightly dizzy - with fatigue and happiness! I lowered down to be congratulated by Robbie and Marten. I discovered that Robbie had got some footage from a distance, and playing it back was hilarious - his commentary was along the lines of a harsher version of “Bloomin’ heck!” as I got through the crux. I think I surprised him I had done my first 8a+ in 4 goes, and a bouldery one at that!

That evening we went to a barbeque with the Irish crew which was lovely - good food and company! In all I think the best day of the trip so far, and we returned at 2am to the campsite where me, Luke and Gasper braved the cold showers and earned “lad points” in doing so!

The next day I felt tired from the day before’s exploits, so decided to have a mileage day of ticking easier routes fast. I warmed up on “Blocage Violent” 7b+, managing to on-site it despite getting massively pumped! I then went for an on-sight of “Berlin” 7c, coming off at the start (due to very polished footholds and a bad sequence!) but then worked it to the top and got it next go - one of the best routes I’ve done here I reckon.

We are now on rest day number two due to rain, but tomorrow is looking to be better on the weather front and Robbie’s finger is healing up nicely. He has made some fantastic videos and taken some awesome photos - some are on his blog, others you will have to wait for and be patient! As for my next project, I’m not too sure what I’ll try next - perhaps another 8a or 8a+?

Time for tea now, hope all is well in the UK!

Natalie

Hey guys! The last few days have been very busy indeed, well except for yesterday which was a very rainy rest day! We drove to Gap with our group of Irish friends and spent the day there to avoid the soggy campsite - after the disappointment of discovering that our favourite boulangerie was closed, we spent about 2 hours in the supermarket and had a relatively (compared to baguettes and salad!) extravagant lunch. We then ventured to the pet shop across the road where we saw turtles, a black chicken which looked like “Big Bird” and lots of reptiles, fish and fluffy things. Afterwards we went to the climbing shop for the 4th time in 4 weeks and walked for about an hour trying to find an internet cafe, eventually found one and wasted some time there before (FINALLY!) going for a pizza at the best pizza shack in La Fressinouse. We went there last year and have been desperate to go again! Me and Robbie shared a main course pizza then had a desert pizza with chocolate and raspberries (we traded two slices for two banana and chocolate ones from Michelle and Shane ) After feeling suitably full and near to the point of explosion, we stopped eating for the day and returned to a slightly dryer camp and had some tea with Andre, Asha and Jerome.

Three days ago I warmed up and had a go on my project “Les Colonettes” 8a. I still couldn’t get past the tricky boulder at the start with a big move to a poor gaston hold and was getting a bit demotivated. I pulled past the move and tried to go for the 7c+ version redpoint from the jug after the boulder problem, which to me doesn’t feel like doing the route properly but I was psyched to try the rest of the route - an amazing line of tufas and pockets! Robbie was filming from above and I felt calm on the route, getting more used to the kneebars and clamps on the tufa-line. At the end of the tufas I reached the redpoint crux. Slightly pumped, the hold I was aiming for looked further away than ever, i got my foot up, went for it and missed. I was disappointed but happy that I had made progress compared to my last attempt. Afterwards I had a go on Robbie’s 8b project “Radote Joli Pepere”. It tarts up an easy slab section then goes over a massive roofy bulge with a boulder crux just over the lip. I worked the moves and did all of them except for the crux, by which point my skin was starting to shred! I really enjoyed trying something a lot harder and reckon this route is a possibility if I really go for it over the next week or so.

Tuesday was a good day, I warmed up by onsighting a 7a called “Nitassinan” in Biographie sector, a nice line with a tufa section at the top. The conditions were cooler and I felt good about getting back on “Les Colonettes”. Robbie was in position on the static rope to get footage and our friend Marten from Germany was on belay. I tried the boulder again and came off, frustrated. I tried it again a couple of times until one time I caught the gaston. I let go and lowered to the ground to try it in full. I got my left foot really high in a pocket then made a slightly dynamic move to the gaston, only just managing to catch it with my fingertips and creeping them up as far as I could. I locked into position and edged my right foot up and was in a very awkward position. I had to go for it, and jumped for the good ledge just beside the gaston, giving a powerscream as I latched it. I was surprised to have done the move but psyched, and chilled out before climbing through to the tufas. Knee-bar after knee-bar, I tried to get through the tufas quickly, as they can be pretty unrelenting on the forearms! Eventually I made it to the top of the blue streaks and rested on some good pockets. The next moves would be tricky after having completed the route from the start I reached the move where I had fallen last time, feeling pretty pumped. Luckily, I saw a good crimp which I had never used before, which enabled me to reach the good hold in a much more efficient fashion than before. Latching the good hold, I shook out and made a few harder moves to an even bigger jug before the final crux. I could hear Robbie willing me on from the static line and powered through the top section - including moves on pockets and monos! I grasped the final jug and clipped. Relieved, I lowered down completely knackered!

My 4th 8a of the trip! I was so psyched that I immediately got on a new project “Dolce Vita” 8a+ in Berlin which I found hard but managed to do all the moves. I think linking them will take a few goes but I’m feeling stronger and fitter each session, so I will see what happens when I go up today

Now we have lots of food again and everyone is psyched, as long as the rain and hailstones keep away! We said goodbye to our friends Olly, Tom and Will yesterday, and although the British camp is diminishing in size, we have friends from Canada and Germany who have joined our posse to keep the spirit alive

Natalie

Hey guys! Back on a lazy rest day today at the campsite so just a quick update on how things went yesterday. Once again I turned on the aggression and managed to tick “Bourinator” 8a on my second attempt this year (had two or three goes last year but never got past top boulder problem) I was confident that I could do all the moves, but I expected that linking them would be difficult as the route is pretty much my anti-style - steep and burly with lots of big, powerful moves! However, I was psyched to give it everything, and with Andre in place with the video camera the pressure was on to get it “done”!

Andre practiced with the camera, filming me reading the route and getting psyched up. I knew all the moves from my previous attempt the day before when I had worked out the best sequences, but this route would require a lot of burl and aggression to get me up it! I tied in and scrambled up the first easy section to clip the first quickdraw, chalked up and it had begun!

From a good sidepull I reached into a massive undercut, clipped and then moved into another undercut before powering up to a slot. Feet up, cross-over and into a good jug with poor feet. The next moves were the hardest for me - out to a two-finger pocket far right, then into an undercut beside it. Feet up high then a massive launch to a pocket which is awkward to catch and hard to see. I let out a powerscream and latched it, then followed the line of better holds up to a good rest. I composed myself and continued - the next section having awkward movs on good holds but awkward feet positions. I looked down and saw a trail of blood on the holds I had just used and thought “eurghh! Hope it’s not my hands!” I then looked at my left hand which had a massive flapper of skin on the little finger and blood leaking pretty heavily out of it. I tried my best to wipe it off on my trouser leg (eurghh!) and chalk it up (unpleasant!) and tried to forget about it. It made some moves a bit touch-and-go as my hand started slipping slightly, but I gritted my teeth and screamed through the next big moves…from a good hold to a pocket….then to a good edge….then a jug! I chilled out and heard friends from over on Demi Lune sector shouting “Come on Nat!” as they watched. The top section I remembered as being technical and crimpy, but I knew the moves weren’t too hard. I was fully recovered and did a deep lock to a crimp, then followed the small holds up the last vertical section. Finally I reached two good holds. I was jaded and felt worn out from my efforts, but was elated when I clipped the chain, almost in disbelief. I had fought an intense battle, made even more exciting with having a bloody hand! I was so tired that I found it impossible to strip the quickdraws off the route, so had to chill out a bit before taking them out!

The footage which Andre took is great, and will be put up soon I hope! The internet connection is very slow here which makes uploading difficult. Apparently (according to Robbie) my powerscreams attracted a lot of attention…and from watching the video I can see why! I was so happy to get my 3rd 8a of the trip the day after my second, in so few attempts.I feel as though I am getting to grips with the tenacity required to tick hard routes - my confidnence is growing and after a year of finger injuries I seem to be overcoming them and making progress.

My next mission is to complete “Les Colonettes” 8a - an amazing tufa line which I tried a few weeks back and am keen to get back on. I think it will be a tougher route for me to tick compared with the three 8a’s I have done so far this trip - big holds but big moves and pumpiness all round! I am also keen to try something harder like an 8a+ and an 8b…watch this space!

Hey guys! After an “interesting” party the other night, the crew were feeling a bit jaded but a few still managed to have a good day at the crag! Yesterday was a great day, I managed to do my project “Carte Blanche” 8a on my 3rd try and Jacob managed to get “Les Colonettes” 8a second go! Robbie got very close on his 8b project and made it look like it’ll be getting done soon.

After getting so near to completing the route on my 2nd try I was psyched to try and get it next go - but also pretty nervous! Me and Robbie warmed up on the 7b classic “Lapinerie” and then got in line for “Carte Blanche” (Demi-Lune is always busy!)

Jon very kindly volunteered to video my attempt and provide support/heckling I tried to relax but was also psyched up to get it ticked. The first moves flowed well and I shook out for a bit at the rest before the crux. Yet again, I unleashed a terrifying scream as I launched for the hold over the bulge - startling some people below. I made a silly mistake just after the crux but corrected my feet and composed myself - then another power roar followed! I climbed quickly through the next section and rested before the bit where I had fallen previously. I knew what I had to do now, now room for mistakes! I got the hold with the correct hand this time and made a big move to a jug - the end was in sight! I rested and continued up the technical arete - I made a silly mistake by going wrong-handed but luckily could correct it. Good crimp, cross under, feet up, a few moves and I had clipped the chain! “Done it!” I exclaimed in surprise and relief.

Hopefully we will get the footage up on here or Facebook soon

I was so happy to have ticked it in so few attempts, and straight after I went on my new project “Bourinator” 8a. I tried this route twice last year but didnt get to the top section. I had a flash attempt which was stopped when I came off just after the first crux, but I wasn’t disappointed as I hadn’t expected to make it through the crux in the first place I worked the moves and felt much stronger than last year - today I am going up to try and get it second or third go!

I am really starting to get into the swing of things here now, my confidence is increasing and my fingers (touch wood) are still holding out - no pain which is amazing!

Off to play some table tennis now!

Natalie

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Hey guys! Another rest day for us, and a very well-earned one I’d say! The last two days of climbing have been pretty intense - projects are becoming increasingly achievable and things have been going well on the on-sight front.

On Tuesday, despite being teased about my matching checked shirt and trousers (the ones that aren’t pyjamas!) I felt confident about getting back on “Changement de Look” 7b+ and knew I could do it 2nd go if I really went for the cruxy boulder move low down. After warming up by flashing “Lapinerie” 7b I felt ready. Luckily for me a Czech couple had just been trying the route and so they put my quickdraws in. Chatting to the guy who had just done the route, he reckoned it was “one of the hardest 7b+’s he’d ever done!” and that it was harder than the classic 7c “Berlin”. I got ready to climb and remembered the sequence which I had worked out before - if I was going to get through the hard section, I’d have to give it everything. The start is slightly tricky but I powered through and got to a good rest on a massive shield of rock and scoped out the next moves. I was at the crux - I bumped my right foot up, locked off and went again with my left hand from a tiny two-finger pocket to a good crimp, then locked off and twisted as I crossed into a good pocket and clipped. I had done the hardest part - but the rest was certainly not too easy! The next moves were very small on tiny holds and I had to constantly change my hand positions, swapping and matching. The next moves were easier and I had only the precarious slab to go - I smeared and bridged and palmed-off and got to one of the last moves. I remembered it being tricky but couldn’t remember exactly how I did it, I think I had climbed it more intuitively on the first go with less pressure after falling at the crux. I was hesitant and my feet were sore from standing on the tiny smears. I decided just to go for it and stop hanging around - I stood up and crossed through an I was just below the chain…two more moves and I clipped it! I was so relieved and happy - this route felt much harder than 7b+ and judging from what I’ve heard other people think the same!

Yesterday I warmed up on a 7a classic called “Un pont sur l’infini” - veryyy technical! I am really getting the hang of these long technical slabs now, I am actually starting to enjoy them rather than worrying about run-outs! I then set my eyes on “Carte Blanche” 8a - my current project. My first go since last year’s one and only half-hearted attempt had gone well, getting to the crux but not finding a way to do the move and pulling past it. Robbie jumared up a static line to get a video of me on the route. The pressure was on! I felt confident and wanted to try and do it 2nd go - I needed to get ANGRY!! I am not known for being an aggressive climber and what followed I don’t really know where it came from…

I started climbing and jumped and powered through the long moves on good holds. I was over the first bulge and hanging from my feet in a good rest position below the crux. The atmosphere was a bit mental at the crag as the Americans and a young French crew were chatting to the Brits using what can only be described as “Franglish”. I was focussed but couldn’t help over-hearing the conversations consisting of “J’adore mon cheval” ( I love my horse) and “BAGUETTE!!” Somehow I conjured up the aggression to roar my way through the crux move - a massive move for me - and continued powerscreaming for about 6 or 7 moves until I reached the top section in a corner. Unfortunately I went wrong-handed to a pocket and was too pumped to correct it and came off going for the biggest jug ever in a really awkward way! I was about 5 moves from clipping the chain and very disappointed, but happy with the way I had climbed and approached the route. It was only my second attempt and I am aiming to get it next go! Our American friends and all the other Brits were quite taken aback by my noisy performance (and Robbie too I think!) and one said “I didn’t think you could make noises like that!” to which I responded “Neither did I!” Robbie got some awesome footage (apart from when the wind blew him around the rope just as I was nearing my highpoint!) which we will upload at some point.

Today we planned to go to the gorge to swim and jump but the weather has been a bit on-and-off, so just a lazy day unil a party tonight with our friends Squib and Dario - to which we have been asked to bring the following:

• Alcohol
• Strippers
• Marshmallows
• Happyness

We were given this list and some directions written on the back of a cheese carton and were asked to invite as many people as possible, so please come along

Tomorrow is mission “Carte Blanche” for me. Stay tuned! Off for lunch now!

Natalie